Variomatic Madness!

We don't speak Hollandaise, but we do enjoy us some wacky Dutchness. Here, we get some classic footage of the DAF 600 (aka the Dafodil) in both sedan and Dafamino guise. And then, just when you think you've seen it all, the Dafamino converts into a sedan! Hell, even Wert should be able to get behind this car. Still no FAF, but undeniably rad.


You Want Weird? DAF/Jan de Rooy/Dakar Celebration Polka [Internal]




6 egg yolks, save the whites for a nice Meringe'

1-2lb or so butter, melted and skimmed/separated (clarified)

Lemon juice, salt to taste. White pepper, Worcestershire, and/or Tabasco optional.

This is for a fairly large recipe, for a mother's day brunch with the inlaws, for example.

Whip the egg yolks in a warm bowl over a steam bath (double boiler), slowly adding a little steaming hot water (1-2TBSP), if you are too hot, or don't whip it enough, it will break or turn into scrambled eggs. This step is pretty fast.

When the yolks just start to thicken and turn brighter, start SLOWLY pouring in a stream of warm clarified butter, if it is too much colder/hotter than the yolks, it will break the sauce. Add as much as you like, but not enough to break it. If it starts to look like the butter isn't blending in as fast, you are close to max butter/egg ratio. It will get thicker up to a point and then break. If it does, start another batch of yolks, and add the broken sauce into it just like you did the butter, and it will (hopefully) be reborn.

Season with lemon juice (start w/1TBSP) and salt to taste. If you want to make Bernaise, stir in a tarragon/red wine reduction (throw some fresh minced tarragon in a saucepan with red wine, cook it down to <10% of it's original volume).

Now, wasn't that easy? Basically, you want to keep the whole mass at a relatively consistent, stable temp, which is why your left forearm will get tired by the time you are done making it. You are basically linking the raw protein chains together with the fat and the heat, which is why it gets thicker.

It takes some practice, but besides the butter, it's cheap. If it breaks, try to fix it, or start over, doing something different. Try hotter/colder,more/less butter, etc.

Also, in theory, you could make it with any raw protein (the chemistry is the same), but I have yet to make the mythical "Hollan-DEES" for that special lady in my life...