It is claimed to be the world's most expensive car wax, but I think the Zymbol has that title completed locked down. Of course, we've no idea how big those jars are. Maybe it's like a volume discount kind of thing. [Luxurylaunches]

Space Age Polymers

The thin layer of space age polymers that comprises modern automobile paint makes the difference between a car that's worth washing and waxing, and that chalk blue Gremlin that Uncle Vito drove around. The paint needs to stay strong enough to protect the steel underneath, yet flexible enough as not to dry out and lose its strength. Nothing beats up on paint like the relentless forces of sun and weather. Once the materials that keep the paint tough yet flexible get baked dry by the sun or wicked away by the rain, bad things start to happen.

Snake Oil

Cleaning first is the key to waxing later. A properly applied coat of protective wax acts as both a sealant to keep the good stuff inside your paint, and a shield to keep the bad stuff out. Which wax to use is open to freedom of choice. As we tend to stick with the classics a good old Carnauba paste or liquid is on the shelf. Others will rant on about the miracle of modern science and synthetic formulas. As with most things, if it sounds too good to be true it likely is. Quality is more important than type, and any protection is better than none at all.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Cool Shady Spot
· Water and Hose with Spray Nozzle
· Bucket of Soapy Water
· Clean Soft Towels of Some Kind
· Super Squeegee
· Top Quality Wax
· More Clean Soft Towels

Rinse it. Park the vehicle in some shade and hose it down from top to bottom with cool, clean water. Hose down that stinky dog if so equipped. Also spray any nearby cats.

Make soapy water. Use a quality soap made specifically for washing automobiles. Dish soap and the like will dry out automotive paint.

Wash it. Use plenty of soapy water and soft clean towels or sponges to wash away dirt and grime. Making waxy scratches in the paint by pushing dirt around is not the desired result.

Rinse it down again. Work from top to bottom to remove detergent. This time say goodbye to dirt and crud.

Dry it. One of the better sawbucks ever spent was on one of these silicone blade squeegee gizmos. Finish drying with soft terrycloth towels or chamois. These microfiber towels work swell too. If a compressor sits in the garage fire it up and use compressed air blow water out of crevices.

Wax on! Apply a thin coat of wax in a circular pattern to a small area at a time. Be careful not to get wax on trim bits or lodged in cracks. Work in the shade. NEVER apply wax in direct sunlight or attempt to apply wax to a hot painted surface. The wax can bake on and become wicked hard to remove.

Wax off! First let the wax to haze over and dry. Next use clean, soft cloths to remove wax. Rotate the cloth surface and shake out any excess wax and as you go. Tip: tear those corner labels off cloths to prevent making scratches.

All manner of modern machines and miracle products are available for the task of washing and waxing. The safest and gentlest on paint method is a good old hand wax. Buffers and polishers can do the job but can also cause damage. – Mike Bumbeck

[A special thanks to various pals, neighbors, and the Analog Assassins for helping out]

Related:
Wheel Cleaning Tips in Detail; And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Dusted Flakes

The majority of what ends up all over the wheels in normal driving is dust from the brake pads. Barrel-assing around will require more braking power to stop, and will create more dust. Switching brake pad compounds can help, but brake dust is inevitable. The rest of the crud can come from sources as common as road grime or nefarious as neighborhood cats and dogs. At best the wheels get filthy. In a very worst-case scenario the contaminants in the dust and grime can etch into the wheel finish or paint, and even the wheels themselves. Road salt accomplishes this task very well. Corrosion and pitting will require expensive wheel refinishing.

Brush Off

The procedure for cleaning and detailing wheels on an automobile varies with the type and finish of wheel. Before washing or detailing any wheels make certain they are cool to the touch. Brakes get hot, and so do the wheels. Hosing down hot wheels to speed things up will warp brake discs about as quick. While we know as well as you that there are scads of these bottled miracle spray cleaners, make sure the formula is compatible with the wheel finish by testing on a small area before coating the entire wheel. Some of these cleaners can cause damage to certain finishes. One-step cleaners are sometimes a good quick fix but where's the fun in that? Bring a bucket.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Dirty and/or Crusty Wheels
· Bucket of Warm Soapy Water
· All Manner of Scrub Brushes
· Towels
· Chrome Polish, Aluminum Polish, or similar
· Carnauba Wax, or Similar
· Hose and Spray Nozzle

Park the vehicle in the shade. Allow wheels and brakes to cool. Cold water and hot brakes make for warped rotors. Don't do it, man! Hose off dust and debris only after wheels and brakes are cool to the touch.

Painted finish wheels should be cared for in much the same way as paint on the car. Washing followed by a good coat of wax will help prevent brake dust from sticking to the spokes. Use soap, water and brushes to remove built up dust, grime, and debris.

Getting rid of stuck on dirt is easier with brushes. Make sure the bristles won't damage finishes before diving in too deep. Long-handled brushes can help prevent aching backs, and get in-between spots. Bottle-type brushes can help remove dirt from spokes and brake calipers.

Chrome finish and polished aluminum wheels look similar, but require different care. Don't apply wax to chrome finish wheels, as the chrome needs to breathe. Use a polish or cleaner made for use with chrome.

Polished aluminum wheels are a perpetual cleaning affair. The oxidation process begins as soon as shine is achieved. Magnesium in the aluminum alloy wants to turn dull gray. Be careful with one-step cleaners on polished aluminum.

One-step cleaners can be very effective, but test on a small area first before coating the entire wheel. Keep a hose nearby in case bad, corrosive things start to happen.

Removing the wheel and cleaning the backside can add a higher level of detail. Scrubbing will most likely be required to remove years of collected crud.

A shining wheel backside can make the front side appear brighter by reflecting more light back through the spokes. Potrzebie! – Mike Bumbeck

Related:
Polishing Aluminum Wheels; And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]