I can go either way, depending on what I'm looking for on any particular junkyard trip. My default junkyard toolbox, the one you've seen photographed next to so many Junkyard Finds, is the small S-K box on the right. I keep it stocked with the absolute bare minimum set of tools necessary to pull 95% of junkyard prizes, from trim pieces to complete engines, and I cull its contents with an obsessive backpacker-grade eye for weight and bulk reduction (my back starts to ache whenever I see guys trudging along like pack mules under the burden of a 5-gallon bucket full of 1" drive sockets and Archimedes' Choice™ prybars). Lately I've been going back and forth on the small hacksaw I sometimes bring, because there's really no substitute when you need to get that goddamn exhaust pipe out of the way… but it's a pain to have to remove the hacksaw to get at the tools beneath. Then there's the reality that just about everything in the yard is metric now, so do I really need more than just 7/16", 1/2", and 9/16" wrenches? In fact, do I really need any non-metric stuff?

When it comes time for a heavy-duty, all-day junkyard frenzy, I'll load up one or two of the big steel boxes, maybe put on a backpack for hauling small parts, and bungee everything onto a dolly. Cordless impact wrench? Mondo breaker bars? Hell, yes! But most of the time, I'm a junkyard toolbox minimalist. How about you?

I've been a junkyard regular for many years now, so my tool collection contains many junkyard finds. Here's a more or less random selection of some of my found tools; click on a thumbnail to get that tool's story.
K-D Tools Ratcheting Box Wrench
Since this type of wrench in the Detroit-centric 1/2" and 9/16" sizes is so useful for old American (and some British) cars, it ranks as one of my favorite junkyard tool finds. I found it in a late-60s Mercury Montego at Ecology Auto Wrecking in Santa Fe Springs, 20 years ago.
K-D Tools Ratcheting Box Wrench
Here's a detail of the ratcheting box wrench. Not sure of the era, but I'm guessing 1960s or older.
5" Vise-Grip Pliers
Genuine Vise-Grip™ locking pliers, not some generic substitute! I found this in use as a window crank on a mid-70s Nova and made it my own.
Diagonal Cutters
Here's a recent find; these diagonal cutters were sitting on top of a mess of wires in a Volvo 244's harness, which I was harvesting for connectors to use in 20R Sprite Wiring Hell. For some reason, this is the most commonly found tool in the junkyard (other than tire irons, of course); I have a half-dozen of these things, all scored at junkyards.
1903 Screwdriver
This one didn't come from a junkyard, but it's still my all-time favorite found tool. I found this half-buried in the dirt beneath a wooden floor I was replacing in the 1880s stable behind my parents' Victorian house.
1903 Screwdriver
This screwdriver has been a very useful tool. The steel is too soft for it to be any good for serious prying (you can practically bend it in your hands), but the metal frame is set up to enable serious hammer pounding, which makes it a great pseudo-chisel.
1903 Screwdriver
The manufacturer's name is obscured by rust, but you can make out the word "Handle" and an August 25, 1903 patent date stamped on the shaft
West German Screwdriver
I've had this for so long that I don't recall what kind of car it came from, but it has the look of a piece from a VW or Porsche tool kit. Remember when West Germany was a country? That's where the "W" at the beginning of the VINs of German cars comes from, trivia buffs!
Companion Adjustable Pliers
I had to look up the generic name for this type of pliers, because- like Xerox or Kleenex- the manufacturer's name has become the de facto title for this tool.
Companion Adjustable Pliers
I found this tool just last week, sitting on the front seat of a Jaguar XJ-6. It appeared that the former owner, Jim C, was using these pliers in a futile attempt to remove the steering wheel nut, then was too exhausted to pack all his tools after he gave up in despair. I always associate the words "Jaguar" and "despair."
Yankee No. 41 Push Drill
It's always worth digging through the crap in the back of a junked plumber's truck, because you might find something like this 1901 Yankee Push Drill. I must admit I haven't used it very often (having been spoiled by power drills), but it's still a pretty cool thing to have. Still works perfectly after more than a century!
Yankee No. 41 Push Drill
It came with a full set of bits, which store inside the handle. You can pick these things up pretty cheap on eBay nowadays.
Stanley Utility Knife
Here's another very common junkyard freebie, that favored accessory of the English football hooligan. Rather than using a Stanley knife to slice up the faces of my rivals, however, I'm more likely to put it to use slicing troublesome hoses and belts that block access to engine-compartment fasteners. I have several of these, all junkyard-obtained.
Matco 1/4" Drive Ratchet
For years, I used a junkyard-found Blue Point (aka "Snap-On Lite") quarter-drive ratchet, but the day came when I overtorqued it one too many times and made hash out of its delicate innards. Fortunately, I found this Matco ratchet in the glovebox of a mid-80s Tercel wagon before that happened, so I had a backup.
Ace Hardware Screwdriver
I find so many flat-tip screwdrivers in junkyards that I tend to give them away to my friends who can't scrape up Tool One when it comes time to replace a switch plate or something. Here's a cheapo that I grabbed off the ground at a junkyard last week, just sitting among the hoseclamps and weeds between the cars.
Sam's Club Screwdriver
This screwdriver, which I found in a gym bag full of spray-paint cans in a Sentra, has become my default JB Weld and Bondo mixer. It's just the right size to pry the lid off a Bondo can!

The most notable feature is the three-stage front arm arrangement. It also includes rubber foot pads to protect the undercarriage, a single-point mechanical lock release and padded overhead shut-off. Who said you need a four-post lift? Those who need four posts must be compensating for the other post inadequacies. [Toolmonger]

Oddly enough, the chocolates look very, very lifelike. I could easily mistake these for some very-rusted over tools and get to work, but these are meant for eating, not working. Included are wrenches, pliers, bolts, nuts and more. The downside is that they are made by the Japanese company Trantz, so first off, who knows how you can get the. And secondly, who knows if these tools are really chocolate. [Frantz]
(Thanks, Sean K)

Nothing says romance like eating prime rib out of a tire with wrenches and pliers. An included chrome hubcap is just the right amount of shine for the tire—and great for keeping your finely cooked dinner warm as your transport it from kitchen to dining room. Ever drink wine out of a piston-shaped mug? Me neither, but with classy equipment like that, you're bound to get some Saint V's Day desert after the actual dinner is all said and done. [Product Page via Nerdapproved]

If you're reading this and you want to give the grease monkey (maybe Dr.Danger) in your life something special, just get them one really nice tool from a well-regarded name in tools. One good tool is something that can be hung in the garage (or tossed on the floor) and will be regarded as a prized possession.

Especially when the junkyard is chock full of pocket-sized Toyota injectors, available for free at a reasonable price? Exactly. But how do you know if your junkyard injectors are any good? Sure, you can tell if one is completely nonfunctional once you start the car, but it's hard to detect one that's just screwing up enough to hose the emissions. Well, the Toyota shop manual refers to some kind of high-tech flow-testing device that basically lets you look at an injector's spray pattern and measure the flow to see that it's within specs. I figured, hey, I'll just build my own! Now, y'all can just hold off on the comments telling me I'm a fucking idiot with a death wish, because I swear I look back with horror at all the different ways this thing could have killed me; my only excuse is that I got locked into the challenge of building it, while not really looking at the big picture. In any case, I figure what I ended up building might be of some entertainment value to our beloved Jalopnik readership. So here ya go!


But first, as a technical writer I'm required to scare the daylights out of anyone who might attempt to build this incredibly dangerous device, by providing a disclaimer packed with menacing statements in boldface (and, of course, Walker Canada's warning symbol). So: Warning! If you attempt to build any sort of device that involves gasoline under high pressure, particularly one that resembles in even the slightest detail the device described below, you will definitely be killed. In fact, you will be burned so severely that you will pray for a quick death to release you from your agony, as your arms and legs curl up and fall off like sausages left too long on the barbecue. However, before the gasoline ignites, you will experience the sensation of pressurized gasoline being injected into your eyeballs, exploding them. After the paramedics show up (shaking their heads at the fool contraption that transformed you into a cruel parody of human form) and haul you to the hospital, your relatives and friends will arrive at your bedside and read you long lists of your faults and wrongdoings, each whispering "I always loathed you" in your ear (which will resemble one of those black potato chips from the bottom of the bag).


Right, so now that we've ensured that you're not going to, you know, try this at home, we can get on with the description of the device itself. First I started with a late-70s Datsun 280Z fuel pump. This is an amazing fuel-injection pump; not only does it deliver a nice reliable flow, but it's by far the easiest such pump to remove from any car at the junkyard, being located in a very accessible spot just inside the right rear wheelwell (unlike most FI pumps, which tend to be located in difficult-to-reach locations like inside the gas tank or behind knuckle-slicing panels). I bolted the pump to a crude plywood frame and rigged up an intake hose long enough to reach a can of gas.


Then I grabbed a fuel rail from a junkyard Tercel (the same one that provided my first four injectors) and plumbed the fuel pump outlet to it. That way I had the same pressure regulator as the one on my Tercel; since the Z pump puts out similar pressure numbers to the Tercel's, I could count on getting similar behavior out of the injectors being tested.


I only wanted to test one injector at a time, so I packed the three extra injector holes in the rail with JB Weld, screwed some bolts into them, then packed more JB Weld over the whole mess. I'm pretty sure this arrangement doesn't meet internationally recognized safety standards, but I got lucky and it didn't leak.


Once the fuel rail was ready, I bolted it to the plywood top of the frame. I figured clamp pressure against the JB Weld would help seal the holes, so I wedged a precision spacer (a dime) underneath the short one. Yeah, I know, what could I have been thinking?


A fuel injector does its thing when it gets 12 volts on its electrical contacts, so I rigged up a Toyota injector connector to the wiring harness.


I didn't have any injectors handy when I shot these photos, so you'll just have to imagine an injector being held in place in the fuel rail by this aircraft-grade aluminum bracket.



I used drywall screws, choice of hoonic backyard mechanics the world over, to tighten the clamp down on the injector and hold it tight enough to get a good seal in the rail. A graduated cylinder goes underneath the injector, but I couldn't dig up one of those for the photo shoot. Just imagine the setup and you'll get the idea- I mean, if you can imagine it not on fire.


Of course, a fuel-injection system needs a return line to go back to the gas can- I mean, fuel tank. I must have scavenged the banjo bolt for some other project, so I'm just laying the line in place for the photo.


Then a couple of light switches, both hooked up to a car battery. One activates the fuel pump, while the other activates the injector. Turn on the fuel pump, turn on the injector, time how much fuel it squirts in a given time period, repeat. Try not to spray gas all over the place. Avoid smoking.


Here's the finished product. It did solve my problem, in that I was able to identify the two bad injectors and replace them with good ones, but I won't be using it again.

Seeing Clearly

A line-of-sight windshield crack or bull's-eye that obstructs vision can prompt a conversation with an officer of the law. Cracked windshields are a good reason to get pulled over, and illegal in some states. Having an installer travel to your home or business to replace a windshield can save the cost and time involved in clearing up a fix-it citation. Cracked windshields can also let in moisture, which can cause hidden rust to form on the underlying steel, and compromise the adhesive bond of the glass to the vehicle. What looks fine from the outside may be a disaster forming out of sight.

Bonding Experience

The plastic and glass sandwich, or sangwich, that comprises modern safety glass serves three functions. The plastic outer layers prevent the glass from shattering when presented with hurtling baby toys or frozen lobster tails fallen off a truck. The plastic itself is flexible, which can cushion any impact of occupants in an accident. A less obvious function is perhaps the most important. Back in the days of finned Cadillacs and Plymouth Potemkins Satellites, heavy stamped steel pillars held up the roof. The glass merely went along for the ride. As efficiency and lower weight became more important, vehicle construction changed. Today the glass and steel along with the adhesive that holds it all together combine to form structural support for the roof of the car. The windshield can also help support a deploying airbag

Sniffing Glue

Using the right catalyzed adhesive to chemically bond the replacement glass to the vehicle structure is extremely important, especially in the case of vehicle rollover or airbag deployment. Using the wrong adhesive may not just result in leaks and cause cabin noise, but it could also result in serious injury in the event of accident. Leaving the windshield install to the guys with the trucks and glass is a capital idea. A lower than normal insurance deductible often applies for front windshield replacement. Check with your carrier. Most auto glass installers are mobile, and will roll out to wherever you are. You could do it yourself, but by the time you get the tools, the adhesive, the primer, crack a new windshield, buy another replacement, and break a trim bit - you could have had more fun playing Grand Turismo while someone else did the job right for a lot less money. In this case we stood around with a camera, so you could see how the job is done.

Stuff You'll Need:

· A telephone or the internets to make an appointment
· Vehicle year, make, and model
· Insurance deductible (optional)
· About an hour
· Something to do for an hour while someone else installs the windshield

This crack was a ticket waiting to happen, and had also caused the window seal to fail. This windshield had also seen enough presidents to become pitted and hazy at night.

Specialized tools are used to gently remove the trim so that the numerous clips, fasteners, and retainers can be re-used. These clips are easy to break. Replacements can often be dealer only items, usually not cheap.

With the trim out of the way another tool is used to squarely slice the adhesive material directly under the windshield.

Once the undercut is finished, a suction cup is employed to remove the old windshield. Presto.

The mounting surface on the new windshield prepped by scuffing. A bonding agent is then applied to the new surface to help with grip onto the old.

Adhesive is laid out in a pointed "V" all the way around the bead. Any gap or inconsistency can lead improper bonding, a water leak, or cabin wind noise.

The suction cup and a steady hand are used to place the windshield in the right spot. There is no do over without starting over.

All the trim bits are put back and the windshield wipers are replaced.
A final cleanup, and the windshield is as good as new. The adhesive should cure before the vehicle can be driven. Ask your installer.

Hey, Bernoulli - Take it Easy!

The carburetor is one of those automobile parts of yesteryear still sworn by and at today. Like a modern electronic fuel injection system, the carburetor's main job is to meter fuel into the air entering the engine based on demand. Before modern multipoint electronic fuel injection became commonplace, the carburetor was the automotive king of mixing fuel and air. The carburetor mixes up fuel and air using Bernoulli's principle by way of a venturi. Bernoulli stated that air becomes less dense the faster it moves. As air moves through the throat of the carburetor, the vacuum created draws fuel into the air to in theory, produce the ideal fuel-air mixture based on engine demand. The carburetor venturi amplifies this effect by squeezing the incoming air into a tighter space, increasing velocity, and vacuum, and so on.

Simple, Right?

The carburetor mixes fuel into the air based on a near-ancient idea of a throttle cable connected to the loud pedal. The throttle plate meters air into the air pump that is the engine. If all goes well the carburetor sends the right amount of fuel to match demand. While multipoint fuel injection mixes the ideal amount of air and fuel together by way of various electronic sensors and a digital computer, the carburetor achieves this same task mechanically. The carburetor is a liquid analog computer. The carburetor uses a myriad of channels, passages, needles and seats, holes, check balls, and vacuum diaphragms instead of ones and zeros.

Mixed Nuts

The devil is in the details. Anything with that many moving parts is bound to be a bit of a cantankerous device. The maze of snakelike vacuum tubes and sensors can paralyze even the initiated. Adding to the operating complexity of a carburetor is that it is bolted down to the top or the side of a perpetually shaking engine that goes from stone cold to two hundred plus degrees and back again all the time. Fuel leftover when the vehicle is turned off combined with engine heat conspires to gum up the works. Evaporating fuel leaves a legacy of varnish and glue.

Ships in a Bottle

Anyone who ever spent any time building models as a kid can rebuild a carburetor. Those of you who relish putting ships in a bottle, or that have a Apple 5300c connected to a car battery running the garage security system might even be able to wrestle a dreaded feedback carburetor back into useful service. The other trick is to get the right rebuild kit. The fusty old Aisin carburetor show here had almost a dozen kits available for the different versions Toyota bolted into the Starlet. Safety first! Gasoline is flammable. Always disconnect the battery and have an approved fire extinguisher nearby before beginning any work involving gasoline or other flammable fuels.

Stuff You'll Need:

· A Crusty Carburetor
· A Carburetor Rebuild Kit
· About Four Hours
· Hand Tools, Including Wicked Small Stuff
· Large Tray to Catch Check Balls and Clips
· Gunk®, Chem-Dip®, or similar
· Gloves and Goggles

Remove the air cleaner. Mark all hoses and connections for future reference because you won't remember. Replace any cracked or broken lines. Remove fuel line using a line wrench to prevent stripped nuts. Use a rag or metal cup to catch any fuel. Remove the carburetor and put a clean rag over the hole.

Move to the bench. Now is a great time to take a digital image of the carburetor for later reference. Break down only the parts that need to be taken apart. Try to keep linkages and levers whole if possible.

Lift off the top of the carburetor to reveal the accelerator pump, and float. Don't tip anything upside down, or a dozen different size ball bearings and check valves will fall out.

If the main jets need to be removed use a screwdriver that fills the screw slot. Any nicks or scratches in the jets can alter the flow of fuel.

The key to any successful carburetor rebuild is the dip. Bailing wire comes in handy for fishing out parts. Small parts go into included dipping basket. Don't leave aluminum in there too long.

The accelerator pump squirts fuel into the throttle bore when you hit the gas. Soak the leather in a little oil to soften it up before installing.

Set the float level and drop by bending tabs and measuring. Do it again, and again, and again until it's right. Float drop and level has great effect on carburetor operation.

This little bugger controls the idle fuel mixture. Make sure it's not worn out or mangled, and that the air passages feeding it are open. Turn the screw until it seats, then turn out according to the instructions.

New gaskets are the key to proper sealing. Set the throttle plate stop angle on the primary and secondary throttle blades. Some rebuild kits come with cardboard templates to make this easy. This kit did not. We had to bust out the protractor and make cardboard templates.

Put it all back together. Easy right? Don't forget to inspect fuel for rust and crud, and install a new fuel filter if required before bolting it back up. Tighten mounting bolts in a criss-cross pattern. Do not overtighten! The carburetor will warp.

He's Mr. Hundred and One
The less discussed function of the spark plug is to transfer heat away from the combustion chamber by acting as a heat exchanger. A spark plug produces no heat on its own, but rather wicks combustion heat through itself into the metal of the hole it's screwed into, and ultimately to the engine coolant surrounding that metal. Spark plugs are rated from cold to hot based on the speed at which they can transfer heat away from the combustion chamber. The correct heat range lets combustion byproducts burn away and the spark plug cleans itself.

Hot, No Wait Cold
Talk of cold and hot spark plugs is a bit counterintuitive. A spark plug in the colder heat range transfers heat quicker. A spark plug in the hotter heat range transfers heat slower. Using a spark plug too hot in heat range can bring excessive temperature, pre-ignition, and in severe cases a melting of the plug electrode. Metal parts flying around in the combustion chamber are very bad. Using a spark plug that's too cold in heat range can cause crud to build up on the electrode, which can lead to decreased spark efficiency.

Choose Wisely
The right spark plugs are designed specifically to work with the engine they're being screwed into. Spark plug manufacturers make this choice easy. Make. Model. Year. Engine. Presto! The next thing to check is the gap. While most conventional spark plugs come pre-gapped, it's a safe bet to consult the service or owner's manual for the correct gap and check with a feeler gauge before installing - with exception! Some newer and wicked expensive plugs can easily be ruined if gapped. Do not attempt to gap Iridium or similar spark plugs. There's usually something to the effect of do not attempt to gap printed on the side of the box.

How Often?
As far as when to change them, there is no reason to do it too often or wait too long. Every 30,000 miles is a good baseline for conventional copper core spark plugs, but keep in mind that all engines will have different requirements. Some newer vehicles will never require the average driver to even think about the spark plugs. While swapping out your spark plugs is relatively simple, there are a few classic screwups to avoid. We've put together a few tips compiled from years of shade free mechanical mishaps. Add some if you have some.

Stuff You'll Need:
· Spark Plugs
· Spark Plug Socket
· Extension and Ratchet
· Hand Tools
· Clean Rags
· Gap Gauge
· Torque Wrench
· Rubber Hose [optional]
· Universal Joint [optional]
· Boot Pliers [optional]

Start with a cool engine and a disconnected battery. Work one spark plug at a time. Clean the area around the spark plug boot or coil pack so crud doesn't fall into the hole left by spark plug. On wire equipped engines remove one spark plug boot by pulling on the boot itself. Boot pliers can help. Do NOT pull on the wire! Modern vehicles will have an ignition coil pack per cylinder arrangement, sometimes bolted in. Remove the fastener and pull the coil pack off the plug.

Remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket, extension, and ratchet. The spark plug should come loose with moderate effort. Stop if the spark plug offers too much resistance. The threads of the cylinder head can come out with the spark plug. This is rare but it can happen. We're not going to run how to install a helicoil thread insert until later.

Spark plug sockets have rubber inserts to hold the plug in place to make life easier. Lift the spark plug free of the hole. Be careful to keep debris from entering cylinder. Stuffing a clean rag in the hole is added safety.

If a spark plug socket isn't available then a length of hose over the end of the insulator can be used to spin the plug out of the hole. This trick works putting a plug into the hole as well. A universal joint can also help for tricky routing.

Check the new spark plug gap with a feeler gauge. Use the numbers on the gauge to match the recommended gap. Not too loose, not too tight. You should be able to feel the gauge contact both electrodes. Wire gauges are the most accurate, but we've never had any trouble using blade feeler gauges.

To adjust the gap use the adjuster on the gauge or Sears 4Way pocket screwdriver to gently bend open the outer electrode. Check that electrode surfaces are parallel to each other. To reduce the gap, lightly tap the spark plug on a level surface. Check the gap again

Put the spark plug back into the socket and thread it in by hand. The spark plug should offer little resistance. Stop immediately if it doesn't thread in like butter. Start over. A cross-threaded spark plug can be an expensive mistake. Turn the spark plug until it seats.

Use a wrench to tighten the spark plug enough to compress the washer against the cylinder head. Using a torque wrench is the best bet for the final twist. Barring that, turn the spark plug around a quarter turn after the gasket feels flattened. No more. Never over tighten spark plugs.

Reinstall the spark plug boot or coil pack. Check that the boot or coil pack is fully seated against the plug. It should be able to feel it click into place. Move onto the next plug!

Finger in the Dike

While oil spots on the driveway or garage floor can be ugly, an engine crankcase or transmission without oil can get really ugly. To figure out where the oil is leaking from place a large sheet of cardboard under the engine overnight. Oil leaks can be deceiving, originating at a point other than the place where the oil meanders down and finally drips onto the ground. Follow your nose to determine if the leaking oil in question is engine or gear oil. Gear oil smells like rotten eggs thanks to the sulfur compounds blended in to aid in the gnashing of gears. Tip: once gear oil gets on clothing, it will smell like gear oil forever.

That's Mr. Gasket to You Pal

Sometimes luck is good, and an oil leak is as simple as cinching down a few valve cover bolts, or replacing a useless oil drain plug gasket. Other times luck runs thin, and the dreaded phrase rear main or axle seal surfaces. The seals that keep oil from escaping past a spinning axle or engine crankshaft are of the same circular variety. The flexible rubber seal is housed in a metal carrier, which can be pressed into a transmission, differential, or engine cover semi-permanently. Replacing a valve cover gasket or oil drain plug grommet is relatively painless. Getting to and pulling a circular axle or oil seal can hurt a lot more, and may involve fun things like pulling the engine or three quarters of the suspension out of the car.

Timing is Everything

A good time to inspect and replace axle seals is when replacing axles or half-shafts. Getting to the engine seals can be a bit more complex. Take a look at the rear main seal when the clutch and flywheel are out of the car. If the seal is leaking even a little, a good time to have at it would be then. These circular seals also live behind inner wheel bearings and other places where things spin with one end in oil or grease, and the other not. To demonstrate the removal and replacement of a circular seal we hauled out a spare junkyard rear differential from a Mitsubishi Starion and put it on the table. Replacing the seal is usually the easy part. Getting to the seals can at best be difficult, and at worst give rise to a story that can now be told in the comments.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Service Manual
· Jack and Jack Stands
· Axle or Oil Seals
· Seal Puller, Prybar, or Bent Screwdriver
· Seal and Bearing Race Installation Tool
· Catch Tray and Container
· Hand Tools
· Engine Hoist [optional]

This seal had sealed its last. Circular seals are fragile. It's easy to damage these seals during ham-fisted axle removal or installation.

The springs on the back of the flexible seal are notorious for coming off and falling into dark reaches. Be careful not to send the spring into the engine, transmission, or differential.

No need to get precious getting a dead seal out of a transmission or engine. Pry the old seal out of the differential or transmission. A seal removal tool makes this task easy. A prybar or purpose bent screwdriver also works.

The seal and bearing race installation tool is the secret to seal installation. Choose a disc that is only slightly smaller or the same size of the seal itself, but still fits into the hole.

Seat the new seal by hand level into the mounting point. Tap the seal into place with the seal tool until the seal is fully seated. Go easy! Be careful not to deform the seal.

Making the Books
There are more or less two kinds of books when it comes to automobile repair. The first and most expensive are the factory service manuals. These are the same books the guys and gals at the dealership use to fix errant connecting rods or chase faulty electronics. If you're behind the wheel of something more or less modern, then the factory service manual may be the only option. Next in line are another kind of service manual. Companies like Haynes and Chiltons use factory service manuals along with cameras to dismantle then reassemble automobiles to produce their own repair books. These are usually geared more towards the shade free mechanic. Finding a service or repair manual is much like finding a car.

The Dealer
The first and most expensive option is to step up to the parts counter at the dealership. If the owner's manual in the glovebox has the same year on the cover as that magnetic calendar on the fridge, then forking over a pile of cash may be the only option until some time passes. This is usually a fairly painful financial experience. Forgo the tru-cote and ask for a copy of the factory sevis or repair manual instead.

Made of Wood
Call us crusty, but we still cling to this antiquated idea that a bookstore is still a good place to find books. Bookstores that specialize in motorized interests are a good place to find a service manual for that old SIMCA, oil-spewing NSU, or Fiat 500 stored in several five-gallon buckets in the backyard. There are even bookstores that specialize solely in automobile factory service manuals! Not surprisingly a number of these booksellers have something called a computer to help reunite books and car owners.

Swap Meet!
Summer means the return of flip flops and swap meets. The factory issue service manual and NOS windshield wiper knob for that '63 Plymouth Fury are out there. Don't just hit the automotive swaps. Branch out into flea markets and garage sales and keep your eyes open for a dog eared copy of the Chevy II twin-book set. Sometimes a book can garner interest in potential car purchases. Warning! A sawbuck plunked down for a seemingly harmless service manual can result in countless thousands of dollars sunk into project cars.

Message Board
One of the best ways to glean information about a particular make and model of automobile is to join a community that already exists. If you're the proud owner of something worthy of having its own message board then chances are good that someone truly dedicated has spent the time to either scan in the pages of the service manual, or host a digital version for members. Another great feature of message boards is that someone, perhaps even the chiseler upstanding citizen that sold you that bucket, has usually had the same mechanical problem before.

The Interwebs
A quick scan of the eBay or similar will reveal hundreds if not thousands of automotive service and repair manuals. Some of these are of the factory service variety. Others of the Hay-Chil sort. While we have scored quite a few genuine factory service manuals from eBay and other fine online retailers, there are also a great deal of crummy bootleg CD-ROM style deals floating around. Beware of the auctions accompanied by a heap of exclamation points. There are certainly more ways to find that service manual, so now it's time to tell the story of where you found your book or digital version in the comments.

Related:
And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Pad Swapping

While swapping in a new set of pads in place of worn out old ones seems a pretty simple, it is a task to best taken very seriously. There is zero room for short cuts or monkeying around when working on brakes. A service manual is crucial. A misstep made or shortcut taken during brake assembly could have dire circumstances. The exact procedure for getting to and replacing the brake pads is as varied as the many different kinds of cars in the world. If the brake pad swap is not completely obvious, then peer into the manual to solve any mysteries. Always check the condition of the brake rotor before installing new pads. If the rotor isn't excessively scored and still measures above minimum thickness then all is well. Swap out the old brake pads for new. If the rotor is too thin or full of peaks and valleys, then replace or resurface the rotor first. Brakes are not a place to skimp or save money.

Friction Materials Convention

The next choice to be made in a brake pad replacement is brake pad material itself. There is no one friction material that works best in every situation. Brake pad material designed for everyday mototring will quickly overheat during performance driving, causing rapid wear and brake fade. Super high-performance or racing brake pad material will never get hot enough to create braking friction in everyday driving. Running with race-compound brake pads on the street will just make a lot of noise, and can actually be dangerous. A general rule is the more aggressive the brake pad material, the faster the rotor will wear out. More noise should also be expected as friction material ratchets up the performance scale.

Extra Crispy

Selecting the right brake pad material starts with honesty. If driving down to the corner store for snacks is the routine, than super-performance brake pads are not required. If track days or canyon runs are marked out on the calendar, then a performance compounds may hold the answer. Organic pad material features normal stopping power and wear along with low or zero noise. Next up in line are the metallic or semi-metallic pads. Genuine metal makes these pads more aggressive, but can bring more noise and disc wear along to the brake party. Semi-metallic pads can be considered an upgrade over organics. Ceramic compounds allegedly offer the best of both worlds, with superior stopping power and long wear along with low or no noise. Another bonus to ceramics is lower dusting, which can keep those fancy wheels cleaner longer. Similar to tire compounds, brake pad friction material is about compromise. There is no free lunch.

Make Your Bed and Stop in It

Like a new set of Chuck Taylors a new set brake pads should be broken in for best results. One method is to drive around and make 8-10 full stops at moderate speeds followed by a cool-down period. Select a boulevard with a good amount of stoplights but not a ton of traffic. After the eight or tenth stop, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool for around 20 minutes. Don't set the parking brake! Go grab a burger, or coney island. Repeat the procedure on the way back to home base. The stopping and starting will heat cycle the material in the pads. Bed-in recommendations vary by manufacturer. Super performance pads may require specific bed-in procedures unique to pad material. While not entirely necessary with some compounds, running a bed-in is a good way to make sure everything was put back in the right way.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Service Manual
· Jack and Jack Stands
· Brake Pads
· Brake Parts Cleaner, and lots of it
· Catch Tray
· Gloves and Safety Goggles
· Hand Tools
· Torque Wrench
· Brake Caliper Tool(s)
· Brake Caliper Grease
· Brake Fluid

Jack up the old heap and remove the wheels. Use brake cleaner to remove brake dust and road grime. Do not use compressed air. Do not breathe brake dust. Handy tip for those inclined to immediately tear everything apart. Leave one side assembled for reference. Forgetting how the various anti-rattle clips, shims, and gizmos go back together is wicked easy to do.

New brake pads should never be installed onto excessively worn rotors or into spent and corroded brake calipers. Measure the rotor minimum thickness with an outside micrometer. The cheap plastic ones work fine for brake rotors. If the rotor is too thin it will overheat and warp. It may already have. Check rotor run-out (warping) with a dial gauge. Replace rotor if numbers don't mesh with those in the manual, or the minimum thickness stamped onto the rotor.

Get the hammer if you find one of these holding on the rotor and acting the goat. A smack or two on the screwdriver may be enough to loosen it. Still stubborn? Use an impact screwdriver. Penetrating or rust busting oil may also play a role.

If caliper removal is required to replace the pads, never let the caliper hang by the brake hose. Use a length of bailing wire or rest the caliper somewhere that causes no stress on the brake hose. Remove old pads and note position of clips, shims, and tabs.

These old pads still had some meat on 'em but were glazed. Delicious and sugary glaze is great on donuts, but lousy for brake pads. Glazed brake pads suffer a loss in efficiency as they lose their ability to bite into the rotor and create friction.

Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, and some of the brake fluid. As the brake pads wear they become thinner, and the brake caliper piston pushes outward. The space behind the caliper fills up with brake fluid. See the reason why some brake fluid needs to be removed in the next step. Danger! Brake fluid will destroy painted finishes.

To install the new and thicker pads onto the rotor, the caliper piston may need to be compressed back into the caliper with one of these fancy tools. This action will push brake fluid back up into the reservoir. Auto parts stores will rent you a box-o-brake tools on the cheap. An old brake pad or two, a screwdriver, and some leverage is another method. Clean off the caliper piston first, as not to send dirt back into the caliper. Brake cleaner!

These calipers had been on the car for a few presidents and needed some fresh grease on the caliper slider pins. If the manual calls for grease, use only high-temperature grease designed specifically for brakes. Regular grease will melt all over everything. Brakes get wicked hot. Glazing is for donuts.

Install new pads into caliper making sure all shims, anti-rattle clips, tabs, and gee-gaws are in the right place. Use brake cleaner to remove any greasy fingerprints and other contaminants from pad surfaces and rotor before mounting caliper on disc.

Mount caliper back on the on disc. Use a torque wrench to torque mounting bolts to specifications. Clean one last time with brake cleaner just for kicks. Depress brake pedal to seat caliper piston and pads. Spin the disc to make sure it spins. Check and add brake fluid if needed. Finish up the other side or other three, and then bleed the brakes.

Related:
Bleed the Brakes; And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Hygroscopic Action!

As do brake pads and rotors, brake fluid wears out. A more accurate description is that the fluid becomes contaminated with moisture by nature of being hygroscopic, which by definition means it has a tendency to absorb moisture from the atmosphere. Water in brake fluid bad news on two levels. Brake fluid is made to resist turning from a liquid into a gas - or boiling. Water turns from liquid to gas at 212 degrees. If the brake fluid absorbs too much water, its boiling will drop. When the brakes get hot the brake fluid will boil, and turn from liquid to gas. Not a good deal at all. Boiling of the trapped moisture also creates the vapors within the brake system, and may be where the air in the lines came from in the first place. Classic symptoms of air in the lines is a spongy brake pedal feel. Another problem with contaminated brake fluid is corrosion. Water in the brake fluid makes it corrosive to every part of the brake system. Regular flushing of brake fluid by way of bleeding can keep corrosion and brake failure away.

Dotted Lines

When it comes to bleeding brakes and replacing brake fluid try to use new brake fluid with the same DOT rating as the stuff that's already in there. DOT is an acronym for the Department of Transportation. Brake fluid is classified as DOT3, 4, 5 and so on. What the DOT ratings specify is the minimum boiling point of the brake fluid. Be wary of using some DOT 5 silicon-based brake fluids. These fluids get around the problem of water absorption by being not at all hygroscopic. While this solves one problem it creates another. Any water in the brake system settles at the lowest point, such as the bottom of a brake caliper piston. An extremely important thing to remember about brake fluid is that is will destroy painted finishes. When working with brake fluid always keep plenty of cool, clean water nearby. Immediately flush any spills. Always dispose of used brake fluid properly. Over the years we've tried plenty of different ways to bleed brakes, but always come back to this simple hose and catch container riff. We're counting on you to share your favorite brake bleeding methods or stories in the comments.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Service Manual
· About Two Hours
· Penetrating Oil or Similar Potion
· Brake Fluid
· Vinyl Tubing
· Bleed-o-Matic or Similar Catch Container
· Line or Box-End Wrench, Hand Tools
· Plenty of Cool, Clean, Water for Spills
· Siphon or Turkey Baster
· Jack and Jack Stands
· Catch Tray
· Helper [Optional]

Locate the bleed screws and spray some penetrating oil or similar miracle rust busting potion onto the threads. These small screws are notoriously easy to shear off. Miracle fluid will help them on their way. A light tap with a small hammer can also help break the threads loose. Go easy there, Thor.

Siphon off as much of the old crappy fluid as possible. Brake fluid should be clear, not dark brown as shown here. Top off reservoir with new clean fluid to the full level. Don't let the master cylinder run dry while bleeding. Try to use fluid from a fresh bottle. Brake fluid is hygroscopic even sitting on a shelf in a container. If using the turkey baster, don't use it to baste turkeys or roasts again. Remember: brake fluid will destroy paint.

Start with the caliper or wheel cylinder furthest away from the master cylinder. First mount a wrench on the screw in question, and then slip a bit of tubing over the end. Use a line wrench or the box end to prevent stripping. The other end of the tubing goes into a catch container. We like to use cheap clear vinyl tubing from the hardware store, and one of these bleed-o-matic deals with the magnet on it.

Crack the bleeder screw just enough to let fluid and ideally trapped air to escape. The trick is not to turn it so far that the screw lets air back in. Gravity may take effect here. Be prepared for brake fluid.

Go back into the car and slowly push down on the brake pedal once or twice. If you have an assistant, then have them push down on the pedal. Now is also a good time to replace any worn pedal covers. Close the bleed screw. The bleed screws are just as east to shear off while tightening as loosening. Check the catch container, and add more brake fluid to the reservoir if required.

Pump the brake pedal a few times. Open the bleed screw again. Repeat the opening of the screw and pushing down of the brake pedal until the brake fluid runs clear and bubble free into the catch container. Cinch up the bleed screw, and move on to the next nearest bleeder screw. Keep going until the fluid runs clear and free of bubbles from all four.

ABS equipped systems may require an additional step. This is where the service manual for your own fine automobile comes in handy. This giant firewall mounted slug of aluminum und schteel is the rear ABS brake actuator on a 1987 Starion. YMMV.

Another plan is to pick up one of these power bleeder deals, or make one from a plant sprayer and associated hardware. The idea is to pressurize the entire system at once, then bleed without the whole climbing in and out of the car and pushing the pedal deal. – Mike Bumbeck

Related:
And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Squeeze Play

An engine makes power by taking in a mixture of air and fuel, pushing the mixture into a confined space, and lighting it aflame. The energy from this explosion pushes the cylinder back down into the hole. Internal combustion! The valves and seals, pistons and rings, and cylinder wall surface all work together to create a tight seal. If any or all of these parts that confine the explosion inside the cylinder get beat up or wear out, engine performance suffers. The reason the old Plymouth was going nowhere despite a carburetor rebuild, tune-up, and so on, was that number two, number seven, and half of number five cylinders had almost no compression. The rest of the cylinders were not in much better shape. Confinement had been lost.

Divining Rod

In a perfect world, the parts inside an engine slowly wear out in unison. In every other world, this rarely happens. If an engine burns voluminous amounts of oil, is down on power, or is just plain running like crap, a compression test is a good way to check what's going on inside the engine without taking it apart. The thing to hope for from a compression test is even numbers. Good news if the cylinders check out within 10 or so PSI of each other, and those numbers sync up with the factory pressure specs. Bad news if one or more of the cylinders show a difference of 15 or more PSI. The service manual will supply guidance on drawing conclusions from test results, and will also list compression service limits. A leakdown tester, which fills the cylinder with compressed air, with can peer deeper into engine problems if the compression test reveals problems.

Little Squirt

If one cylinder shows a low reading, remove the compression tester and squirt some engine oil inside the spark plug hole. Test again. If the second test reveals a higher reading, then worn piston rings or cylinder walls may be the culprits. If the reading stays the same then suspect worn valves or other top end issues. If the gauge shows a very low or zero on any one or more of the cylinders then you too may be the proud owner of a V-5 and-a-half. The 4K-C in this Starlet is a four-stroke gasoline peanut grinder engine. Rotary, two-stroke, diesel, and perpetual motion engines call for a different riff. In any case an engine with low sealing compression in one or more cylinders will never run right - no matter how many new parts are connected to it. The compression test is a good baseline diagnostic and long-term financing tool. Where to spend money will soon be obvious!

Stuff You'll Need:

· About an Hour
· Service Manual
· A Healthy Battery
· Spark Plug Socket and Extension
· Hand Tools
· Compression Gauge Set
· Helper [Optional]

Prep for the compression test by making sure the battery is up to snuff, and warming up the engine. Warm parts make for a better seal and more accurate reading. Look in the service manual and see how to disable the ignition, and fuel system if required. In this case we just yanked the coil wire and the ingnitor connector from the distributor.

Remove all the spark plugs. Removing the spark plugs will let the engine turn over with ease. Don't mix up the wires. Like a slant six the Toyota 4K-C has spark plug tubes that like to come out with the plugs. Determine which tester adapter will work for your engine.

Some kits come with threaded adapters. If you're going solo then use the threaded bits. If you have a helper, then use the rubber-tipped extension deals. Either way the idea is to create the same seal as a spark plug while the engine is turning over. Don't over torque the adapters.

Mount the gauge to the adapter. Crank engine over a few times until the needle on the gauge stops climbing. Holding or propping the throttle plate open can speed up air intake. Record final reading on a scrap of paper or with a Sharpie on hand.

Hit the button on the gauge to release the pressure. Repeat compression test for each cylinder. Try not to knock your head on the hood when Beavis lays on the horn when you tell him to turn over the engine on number three. Record and compare final readings to factory specs. – Mike Bumbeck

Related:
Oil and Filter Change; And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Space Age Polymers

The thin layer of space age polymers that comprises modern automobile paint makes the difference between a car that's worth washing and waxing, and that chalk blue Gremlin that Uncle Vito drove around. The paint needs to stay strong enough to protect the steel underneath, yet flexible enough as not to dry out and lose its strength. Nothing beats up on paint like the relentless forces of sun and weather. Once the materials that keep the paint tough yet flexible get baked dry by the sun or wicked away by the rain, bad things start to happen.

Snake Oil

Cleaning first is the key to waxing later. A properly applied coat of protective wax acts as both a sealant to keep the good stuff inside your paint, and a shield to keep the bad stuff out. Which wax to use is open to freedom of choice. As we tend to stick with the classics a good old Carnauba paste or liquid is on the shelf. Others will rant on about the miracle of modern science and synthetic formulas. As with most things, if it sounds too good to be true it likely is. Quality is more important than type, and any protection is better than none at all.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Cool Shady Spot
· Water and Hose with Spray Nozzle
· Bucket of Soapy Water
· Clean Soft Towels of Some Kind
· Super Squeegee
· Top Quality Wax
· More Clean Soft Towels

Rinse it. Park the vehicle in some shade and hose it down from top to bottom with cool, clean water. Hose down that stinky dog if so equipped. Also spray any nearby cats.

Make soapy water. Use a quality soap made specifically for washing automobiles. Dish soap and the like will dry out automotive paint.

Wash it. Use plenty of soapy water and soft clean towels or sponges to wash away dirt and grime. Making waxy scratches in the paint by pushing dirt around is not the desired result.

Rinse it down again. Work from top to bottom to remove detergent. This time say goodbye to dirt and crud.

Dry it. One of the better sawbucks ever spent was on one of these silicone blade squeegee gizmos. Finish drying with soft terrycloth towels or chamois. These microfiber towels work swell too. If a compressor sits in the garage fire it up and use compressed air blow water out of crevices.

Wax on! Apply a thin coat of wax in a circular pattern to a small area at a time. Be careful not to get wax on trim bits or lodged in cracks. Work in the shade. NEVER apply wax in direct sunlight or attempt to apply wax to a hot painted surface. The wax can bake on and become wicked hard to remove.

Wax off! First let the wax to haze over and dry. Next use clean, soft cloths to remove wax. Rotate the cloth surface and shake out any excess wax and as you go. Tip: tear those corner labels off cloths to prevent making scratches.

All manner of modern machines and miracle products are available for the task of washing and waxing. The safest and gentlest on paint method is a good old hand wax. Buffers and polishers can do the job but can also cause damage. – Mike Bumbeck

[A special thanks to various pals, neighbors, and the Analog Assassins for helping out]

Related:
Wheel Cleaning Tips in Detail; And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]