Pop Mech is growing increasingly irrelevant. Every article is light on substance and lacks any meaningful advice.
They didn't say a darn thing about the rotors. Pad material transfers onto the rotor and builds up. Hot spots (bluish tint) on the rotors will start to cause squealing. Sometimes just going over the rotor contact area with a fine grint sand paper in a small circular motion on both sides will knock down the buildup. Hot spots can be deeper and may require them to be turned down. Costs about all of $5-7 a piece at most shops. Then, always wash your rotors in a soapy washing machine detergent bath to get all the grit and grim off, rinse clean with water, and then spray down generously with brake parts cleaner. A nice cross hatch pattern on the rotor surface will insure proper pad break in and nice quiet stops.
Also, most people don't bed in their new set of brake pads properly. A new set of pads that has not been properly broken in will invariably lead to squealing. Most brake shops will just hang the pads and call you to say the car is ready. You have to bed the pad surface in with a series of short low speed stop allowing plenty of time for the brakes to cool between stops. I usually stop the car about 20 times in a row, never going above 15 mph, and allowing about 1 minute between stops. It is crazy, it is boring, and people that get stuck behind you will most certainly be pissed, F 'em its your brakes, you have to live with it, not them. Pull over and let em go by and continue with the bed in.
@Heftyjo: I did almost the same thing, but inadvertently. Right after I put new pads and rotors on the '71 Caddy that I used to have, some buddies and I visited someone high up in a hilly neighborhood above Salt Lake City (The Avenues). Rode the brakes coming down, and they stunk like hell when we got back down to the flats. Never had any problem with them after that, no noise, fade, anything. And that car saw plenty of mountain use.
@Heftyjo: The pad material transferring to the rotor and the subsequent friction between it and your brake pads is what makes your car stop. That's what "bed-in" IS. Just because new rotors are clean and show evidence of being machined does not mean you need to remove your wheels and sand down your rotors ever couple thousand miles.
Also brake squeal is caused by the pad vibrating against the rotor. This is not exclusive to people with warped rotors, nor will any amount of prep or procedure or 'nice cross hatch pattern' eliminate the potential for vibrations to occur. That's what the thin sheetmetal pad shims and popmech quick fixes are for, to absorb those vibrations.
The way the internet told you to bed in your brakes does technically work, but that's advice I would only ever tell someone who's changing their brake pads one night with plans to use them HEAVILY at autocross the next morning. And, in that scenario, the person I'd be giving advice to would probably slap me for thinking I was patronizing him. I promise that within a few days of commuting to work and light highway travel, that a fresh set of brake pads will bed themselves in just as well for the overwhelming majority of daily drivers' intents and purposes.
@Graverobber: i just saw an advrotisement for fix-a-sqeek onthe picture tube. only 19.95 [+shipping and handling] for a lifetime supply of fix-a-sqeek and for a limited time they are even going to throw in a shamwow!
Ah, Popular Mechanics. Whether you want to learn how to build a hover craft, or field strip an M1, they've got you covered.
I have found that the best way to prevent squeaky disks is to clean and lube the caliper slides as well as I can when changing pads. Also, turning the disks if they warp (damn camry's) is critical.
@lilwillie's E21 leaks no more.: I have actually seen people do that in person. When I was working for PepBoys in HighSchool, someone had the pads all the way down to the vents and wondered why it was soo difficult to stop.
Do you hear that bone-scraping-death-grind? That is a couple hundred dollars down the toilet.
discontinuuity is tentatively testing the waters of Murlopnik Weekend before plunging again into the fridgid waters that are Jalopnik proper was starred
discontinuuity is tentatively testing the waters of Murlopnik Weekend before plunging again into the fridgid waters that are Jalopnik proper was unstarred
@CoЯiolis Eff Smites You With The PoweЯ of BuЯbeЯЯy: On the contrary, us Prius-loving tree-hugging pussies use kinetic energy recovery systems as much as possible. As you would know if you had ever read anything except the ads in the back of Hustler magazine, you Neanderthal, braking turns valuable, expensive kinetic energy into mere heat, I>i.e. global warming. Whereas regenerative braking saves natural resources and decreases pollution, which causes butterflies to frolic happily amidst rainbows.
Now shut-up and get on over here so I can kick your ass, stick-boy.
If FromaBuick6 has to watch one more Chevy commercial, he's going to punch Howie Long in the face was starred
If FromaBuick6 has to watch one more Chevy commercial, he's going to punch Howie Long in the face was unstarred
Oh yeah, you can also learn to love the inherent rightness and beauty of that hockey-goalie-missing-his-front-teeth look. Soon, everyone will be copying you!
OK Ray. What's the idea of trolling your own blog?
I mean seriously...
"I poured Windex into that hole on the engine marked "Oil" to clean it out and make it run better. Now it runs kind of rough, and it doesn't accelerate like it should. My boyfriend says to run it on the highway until it gets hot enough to boil it out. What do you think I should do?"
05/18/09
They didn't say a darn thing about the rotors. Pad material transfers onto the rotor and builds up. Hot spots (bluish tint) on the rotors will start to cause squealing. Sometimes just going over the rotor contact area with a fine grint sand paper in a small circular motion on both sides will knock down the buildup. Hot spots can be deeper and may require them to be turned down. Costs about all of $5-7 a piece at most shops. Then, always wash your rotors in a soapy washing machine detergent bath to get all the grit and grim off, rinse clean with water, and then spray down generously with brake parts cleaner. A nice cross hatch pattern on the rotor surface will insure proper pad break in and nice quiet stops.
Also, most people don't bed in their new set of brake pads properly. A new set of pads that has not been properly broken in will invariably lead to squealing. Most brake shops will just hang the pads and call you to say the car is ready. You have to bed the pad surface in with a series of short low speed stop allowing plenty of time for the brakes to cool between stops. I usually stop the car about 20 times in a row, never going above 15 mph, and allowing about 1 minute between stops. It is crazy, it is boring, and people that get stuck behind you will most certainly be pissed, F 'em its your brakes, you have to live with it, not them. Pull over and let em go by and continue with the bed in.
05/18/09
05/18/09
Also brake squeal is caused by the pad vibrating against the rotor. This is not exclusive to people with warped rotors, nor will any amount of prep or procedure or 'nice cross hatch pattern' eliminate the potential for vibrations to occur. That's what the thin sheetmetal pad shims and popmech quick fixes are for, to absorb those vibrations.
The way the internet told you to bed in your brakes does technically work, but that's advice I would only ever tell someone who's changing their brake pads one night with plans to use them HEAVILY at autocross the next morning. And, in that scenario, the person I'd be giving advice to would probably slap me for thinking I was patronizing him. I promise that within a few days of commuting to work and light highway travel, that a fresh set of brake pads will bed themselves in just as well for the overwhelming majority of daily drivers' intents and purposes.
05/18/09
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05/18/09
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05/18/09
I have found that the best way to prevent squeaky disks is to clean and lube the caliper slides as well as I can when changing pads. Also, turning the disks if they warp (damn camry's) is critical.
05/18/09
05/18/09
Do you hear that bone-scraping-death-grind? That is a couple hundred dollars down the toilet.
05/18/09
05/18/09
@lilwillie's E21 leaks no more.: Good. Some people don't deserve to own cars it seems.
05/18/09
05/18/09
05/18/09
05/18/09
Now shut-up and get on over here so I can kick your ass, stick-boy.
05/18/09
05/18/09
05/18/09
05/18/09
Not that I know...
05/18/09
05/19/09
05/19/09
But not too gentle.
05/18/09
/someone had to
05/18/09
03/16/09
03/16/09
2) To actually solve the problem:
a) Learn to diagonally-approach things
b) Just deal with it
c) Remove the thing
d) Quit yer whining
03/16/09
03/16/09
I mean seriously...
"I poured Windex into that hole on the engine marked "Oil" to clean it out and make it run better. Now it runs kind of rough, and it doesn't accelerate like it should. My boyfriend says to run it on the highway until it gets hot enough to boil it out. What do you think I should do?"
Troubled BMW Girl in Van Nuys