If I were a professional athlete, this would be my introduction song. #oppositelock
Oh no, I picked the S. I figure only die hards would pay $10k more for the JCW package, so the plain S applies to me more. #oppositelock
Short answer = yes.
You could also try reducing rear toe, increasing rear tire pressure, increasing front camber, raising rear spring rates, or raising rear shock rate. All of these should help, each in a slightly different manner / quantity / situation. #oppositelock
What, sport a power bulge up front? I do that regularly.
That's unmistakeable jj abrhams logic.
Don't know a lot of Cobra history, just wonder if some had side pipes and some didn't. #oppositelock
Like them. Just be careful with the torque steer, okay? #oppositelock
Strut braces aren't going to do much - you probably won't notice a difference.
Swaybars, however, will be noticible.
Stiffer front bar: quicker set on turn-in, but more push once it takes a set.
Stiffer rear bar: more oversteery under heavy side loading (steady state Gs.) #oppositelock
No side pipes? Is is a kit? #oppositelock
Yes! 352 pages of .pdf glory are here.
Probably a product of the times. In that sexy wedge supercar body I expected something akin to the similarly sexy wedge supercar Testrossa's 390hp flat 12. When you're 8 years old and learn that it has a four banger it kind of crushes you a little.
Now I know better the laws of power to weight and the miracles of forced induction.
Dogs are awesome. #oppositelock
Apparently the race model is on closeout, hence the price. Only a couple left. I'm cheap, so I just ordered it.
I can't change anything except shocks, rear bar, tire pressure, and alignment in stock class, so I have to make it all work. At the highest levels, most "stock" class cars show up on trailers. The amount of oversteer they need to go fast at parking lot speeds gets hairy at highway speeds. I ran rear toe out briefly last year - it was scary on the freeway.
As the car is still my DD as well as my competition car, here's hoping I don't go backwards into a ditch. I'll start by softening the rear Konis, dialing a little toe back in, and putting it at the softest setting. #oppositelock
I put 80k of the 100k on mine before selling it without a single flood or issue.
I don't know about A LOT of issues. If you redline daily, keep up on the oil, and don't shut it down cold, it's no less reliable than most piston motors. I had 100k on mine when I sold it with *zero* engine problems. I even had the original coils.
Most issues come from trying to treat it like a piston motor. #oppositelock
Well, the easier way to remember it is that sway bars are like springs, except they only work in roll. Generally, stiffer springs / bars on one end = less grip on that end.
With anything, you get to a point of diminishing returns. Example: more camber = better, until you have too much. No doubt a stiffer rear bar will help the car rotate no matter what, but I don't know if I'm going to way overshoot if I get the monster.
I can tweak the balance some with tire pressure, and I guess I could dial some rear toe back in if the car is too unruly. Go big or go home, right?
So the SCCA changed the stock class rules for autocross for next year. Instead of only allowing a front sway bar change, you can change either a front OR a rear, but not both.
So, I'm getting a rear sway bar for my Mini. Hotchkis makes three - a sport (too soft), a competition (+226%,294%, +383%), and a race (+314%, 394%, 501%).
Odd issue: the competition is $300 and the race is $150.
Anyone have experience with stupid stiff rear bars on a FWD car? Can I be a cheap bastard, buy the monster, and hope it doesn't rip my subframe mounts off?
Oddly, I can't find any impressions on the internet of the race bar. #oppositelock
This is the best I could find. #oppositelock
But it performs admirably in the Lotus Elise and Exige in both NA and supercharged guises.
This 1987 Lotus Esprit Turbo has a 215hp 2.2L turbo 4. Eventually it got up to 300hp before a 350hp turbo V8 replaced the 4-pot.
