Seeing Clearly

A line-of-sight windshield crack or bull's-eye that obstructs vision can prompt a conversation with an officer of the law. Cracked windshields are a good reason to get pulled over, and illegal in some states. Having an installer travel to your home or business to replace a windshield can save the cost and time involved in clearing up a fix-it citation. Cracked windshields can also let in moisture, which can cause hidden rust to form on the underlying steel, and compromise the adhesive bond of the glass to the vehicle. What looks fine from the outside may be a disaster forming out of sight.

Bonding Experience

The plastic and glass sandwich, or sangwich, that comprises modern safety glass serves three functions. The plastic outer layers prevent the glass from shattering when presented with hurtling baby toys or frozen lobster tails fallen off a truck. The plastic itself is flexible, which can cushion any impact of occupants in an accident. A less obvious function is perhaps the most important. Back in the days of finned Cadillacs and Plymouth Potemkins Satellites, heavy stamped steel pillars held up the roof. The glass merely went along for the ride. As efficiency and lower weight became more important, vehicle construction changed. Today the glass and steel along with the adhesive that holds it all together combine to form structural support for the roof of the car. The windshield can also help support a deploying airbag

Sniffing Glue

Using the right catalyzed adhesive to chemically bond the replacement glass to the vehicle structure is extremely important, especially in the case of vehicle rollover or airbag deployment. Using the wrong adhesive may not just result in leaks and cause cabin noise, but it could also result in serious injury in the event of accident. Leaving the windshield install to the guys with the trucks and glass is a capital idea. A lower than normal insurance deductible often applies for front windshield replacement. Check with your carrier. Most auto glass installers are mobile, and will roll out to wherever you are. You could do it yourself, but by the time you get the tools, the adhesive, the primer, crack a new windshield, buy another replacement, and break a trim bit - you could have had more fun playing Grand Turismo while someone else did the job right for a lot less money. In this case we stood around with a camera, so you could see how the job is done.

Stuff You'll Need:

· A telephone or the internets to make an appointment
· Vehicle year, make, and model
· Insurance deductible (optional)
· About an hour
· Something to do for an hour while someone else installs the windshield

This crack was a ticket waiting to happen, and had also caused the window seal to fail. This windshield had also seen enough presidents to become pitted and hazy at night.

Specialized tools are used to gently remove the trim so that the numerous clips, fasteners, and retainers can be re-used. These clips are easy to break. Replacements can often be dealer only items, usually not cheap.

With the trim out of the way another tool is used to squarely slice the adhesive material directly under the windshield.

Once the undercut is finished, a suction cup is employed to remove the old windshield. Presto.

The mounting surface on the new windshield prepped by scuffing. A bonding agent is then applied to the new surface to help with grip onto the old.

Adhesive is laid out in a pointed "V" all the way around the bead. Any gap or inconsistency can lead improper bonding, a water leak, or cabin wind noise.

The suction cup and a steady hand are used to place the windshield in the right spot. There is no do over without starting over.

All the trim bits are put back and the windshield wipers are replaced.
A final cleanup, and the windshield is as good as new. The adhesive should cure before the vehicle can be driven. Ask your installer.

Hey, Bernoulli - Take it Easy!

The carburetor is one of those automobile parts of yesteryear still sworn by and at today. Like a modern electronic fuel injection system, the carburetor's main job is to meter fuel into the air entering the engine based on demand. Before modern multipoint electronic fuel injection became commonplace, the carburetor was the automotive king of mixing fuel and air. The carburetor mixes up fuel and air using Bernoulli's principle by way of a venturi. Bernoulli stated that air becomes less dense the faster it moves. As air moves through the throat of the carburetor, the vacuum created draws fuel into the air to in theory, produce the ideal fuel-air mixture based on engine demand. The carburetor venturi amplifies this effect by squeezing the incoming air into a tighter space, increasing velocity, and vacuum, and so on.

Simple, Right?

The carburetor mixes fuel into the air based on a near-ancient idea of a throttle cable connected to the loud pedal. The throttle plate meters air into the air pump that is the engine. If all goes well the carburetor sends the right amount of fuel to match demand. While multipoint fuel injection mixes the ideal amount of air and fuel together by way of various electronic sensors and a digital computer, the carburetor achieves this same task mechanically. The carburetor is a liquid analog computer. The carburetor uses a myriad of channels, passages, needles and seats, holes, check balls, and vacuum diaphragms instead of ones and zeros.

Mixed Nuts

The devil is in the details. Anything with that many moving parts is bound to be a bit of a cantankerous device. The maze of snakelike vacuum tubes and sensors can paralyze even the initiated. Adding to the operating complexity of a carburetor is that it is bolted down to the top or the side of a perpetually shaking engine that goes from stone cold to two hundred plus degrees and back again all the time. Fuel leftover when the vehicle is turned off combined with engine heat conspires to gum up the works. Evaporating fuel leaves a legacy of varnish and glue.

Ships in a Bottle

Anyone who ever spent any time building models as a kid can rebuild a carburetor. Those of you who relish putting ships in a bottle, or that have a Apple 5300c connected to a car battery running the garage security system might even be able to wrestle a dreaded feedback carburetor back into useful service. The other trick is to get the right rebuild kit. The fusty old Aisin carburetor show here had almost a dozen kits available for the different versions Toyota bolted into the Starlet. Safety first! Gasoline is flammable. Always disconnect the battery and have an approved fire extinguisher nearby before beginning any work involving gasoline or other flammable fuels.

Stuff You'll Need:

· A Crusty Carburetor
· A Carburetor Rebuild Kit
· About Four Hours
· Hand Tools, Including Wicked Small Stuff
· Large Tray to Catch Check Balls and Clips
· Gunk®, Chem-Dip®, or similar
· Gloves and Goggles

Remove the air cleaner. Mark all hoses and connections for future reference because you won't remember. Replace any cracked or broken lines. Remove fuel line using a line wrench to prevent stripped nuts. Use a rag or metal cup to catch any fuel. Remove the carburetor and put a clean rag over the hole.

Move to the bench. Now is a great time to take a digital image of the carburetor for later reference. Break down only the parts that need to be taken apart. Try to keep linkages and levers whole if possible.

Lift off the top of the carburetor to reveal the accelerator pump, and float. Don't tip anything upside down, or a dozen different size ball bearings and check valves will fall out.

If the main jets need to be removed use a screwdriver that fills the screw slot. Any nicks or scratches in the jets can alter the flow of fuel.

The key to any successful carburetor rebuild is the dip. Bailing wire comes in handy for fishing out parts. Small parts go into included dipping basket. Don't leave aluminum in there too long.

The accelerator pump squirts fuel into the throttle bore when you hit the gas. Soak the leather in a little oil to soften it up before installing.

Set the float level and drop by bending tabs and measuring. Do it again, and again, and again until it's right. Float drop and level has great effect on carburetor operation.

This little bugger controls the idle fuel mixture. Make sure it's not worn out or mangled, and that the air passages feeding it are open. Turn the screw until it seats, then turn out according to the instructions.

New gaskets are the key to proper sealing. Set the throttle plate stop angle on the primary and secondary throttle blades. Some rebuild kits come with cardboard templates to make this easy. This kit did not. We had to bust out the protractor and make cardboard templates.

Put it all back together. Easy right? Don't forget to inspect fuel for rust and crud, and install a new fuel filter if required before bolting it back up. Tighten mounting bolts in a criss-cross pattern. Do not overtighten! The carburetor will warp.

Car detailing: how much, how often, with what? Me: Zaino the whole car, once per year, occasional touch-free wash. Someday, with a garage, I'll do more.

He's Mr. Hundred and One
The less discussed function of the spark plug is to transfer heat away from the combustion chamber by acting as a heat exchanger. A spark plug produces no heat on its own, but rather wicks combustion heat through itself into the metal of the hole it's screwed into, and ultimately to the engine coolant surrounding that metal. Spark plugs are rated from cold to hot based on the speed at which they can transfer heat away from the combustion chamber. The correct heat range lets combustion byproducts burn away and the spark plug cleans itself.

Hot, No Wait Cold
Talk of cold and hot spark plugs is a bit counterintuitive. A spark plug in the colder heat range transfers heat quicker. A spark plug in the hotter heat range transfers heat slower. Using a spark plug too hot in heat range can bring excessive temperature, pre-ignition, and in severe cases a melting of the plug electrode. Metal parts flying around in the combustion chamber are very bad. Using a spark plug that's too cold in heat range can cause crud to build up on the electrode, which can lead to decreased spark efficiency.

Choose Wisely
The right spark plugs are designed specifically to work with the engine they're being screwed into. Spark plug manufacturers make this choice easy. Make. Model. Year. Engine. Presto! The next thing to check is the gap. While most conventional spark plugs come pre-gapped, it's a safe bet to consult the service or owner's manual for the correct gap and check with a feeler gauge before installing - with exception! Some newer and wicked expensive plugs can easily be ruined if gapped. Do not attempt to gap Iridium or similar spark plugs. There's usually something to the effect of do not attempt to gap printed on the side of the box.

How Often?
As far as when to change them, there is no reason to do it too often or wait too long. Every 30,000 miles is a good baseline for conventional copper core spark plugs, but keep in mind that all engines will have different requirements. Some newer vehicles will never require the average driver to even think about the spark plugs. While swapping out your spark plugs is relatively simple, there are a few classic screwups to avoid. We've put together a few tips compiled from years of shade free mechanical mishaps. Add some if you have some.

Stuff You'll Need:
· Spark Plugs
· Spark Plug Socket
· Extension and Ratchet
· Hand Tools
· Clean Rags
· Gap Gauge
· Torque Wrench
· Rubber Hose [optional]
· Universal Joint [optional]
· Boot Pliers [optional]

Start with a cool engine and a disconnected battery. Work one spark plug at a time. Clean the area around the spark plug boot or coil pack so crud doesn't fall into the hole left by spark plug. On wire equipped engines remove one spark plug boot by pulling on the boot itself. Boot pliers can help. Do NOT pull on the wire! Modern vehicles will have an ignition coil pack per cylinder arrangement, sometimes bolted in. Remove the fastener and pull the coil pack off the plug.

Remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket, extension, and ratchet. The spark plug should come loose with moderate effort. Stop if the spark plug offers too much resistance. The threads of the cylinder head can come out with the spark plug. This is rare but it can happen. We're not going to run how to install a helicoil thread insert until later.

Spark plug sockets have rubber inserts to hold the plug in place to make life easier. Lift the spark plug free of the hole. Be careful to keep debris from entering cylinder. Stuffing a clean rag in the hole is added safety.

If a spark plug socket isn't available then a length of hose over the end of the insulator can be used to spin the plug out of the hole. This trick works putting a plug into the hole as well. A universal joint can also help for tricky routing.

Check the new spark plug gap with a feeler gauge. Use the numbers on the gauge to match the recommended gap. Not too loose, not too tight. You should be able to feel the gauge contact both electrodes. Wire gauges are the most accurate, but we've never had any trouble using blade feeler gauges.

To adjust the gap use the adjuster on the gauge or Sears 4Way pocket screwdriver to gently bend open the outer electrode. Check that electrode surfaces are parallel to each other. To reduce the gap, lightly tap the spark plug on a level surface. Check the gap again

Put the spark plug back into the socket and thread it in by hand. The spark plug should offer little resistance. Stop immediately if it doesn't thread in like butter. Start over. A cross-threaded spark plug can be an expensive mistake. Turn the spark plug until it seats.

Use a wrench to tighten the spark plug enough to compress the washer against the cylinder head. Using a torque wrench is the best bet for the final twist. Barring that, turn the spark plug around a quarter turn after the gasket feels flattened. No more. Never over tighten spark plugs.

Reinstall the spark plug boot or coil pack. Check that the boot or coil pack is fully seated against the plug. It should be able to feel it click into place. Move onto the next plug!

Finger in the Dike

While oil spots on the driveway or garage floor can be ugly, an engine crankcase or transmission without oil can get really ugly. To figure out where the oil is leaking from place a large sheet of cardboard under the engine overnight. Oil leaks can be deceiving, originating at a point other than the place where the oil meanders down and finally drips onto the ground. Follow your nose to determine if the leaking oil in question is engine or gear oil. Gear oil smells like rotten eggs thanks to the sulfur compounds blended in to aid in the gnashing of gears. Tip: once gear oil gets on clothing, it will smell like gear oil forever.

That's Mr. Gasket to You Pal

Sometimes luck is good, and an oil leak is as simple as cinching down a few valve cover bolts, or replacing a useless oil drain plug gasket. Other times luck runs thin, and the dreaded phrase rear main or axle seal surfaces. The seals that keep oil from escaping past a spinning axle or engine crankshaft are of the same circular variety. The flexible rubber seal is housed in a metal carrier, which can be pressed into a transmission, differential, or engine cover semi-permanently. Replacing a valve cover gasket or oil drain plug grommet is relatively painless. Getting to and pulling a circular axle or oil seal can hurt a lot more, and may involve fun things like pulling the engine or three quarters of the suspension out of the car.

Timing is Everything

A good time to inspect and replace axle seals is when replacing axles or half-shafts. Getting to the engine seals can be a bit more complex. Take a look at the rear main seal when the clutch and flywheel are out of the car. If the seal is leaking even a little, a good time to have at it would be then. These circular seals also live behind inner wheel bearings and other places where things spin with one end in oil or grease, and the other not. To demonstrate the removal and replacement of a circular seal we hauled out a spare junkyard rear differential from a Mitsubishi Starion and put it on the table. Replacing the seal is usually the easy part. Getting to the seals can at best be difficult, and at worst give rise to a story that can now be told in the comments.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Service Manual
· Jack and Jack Stands
· Axle or Oil Seals
· Seal Puller, Prybar, or Bent Screwdriver
· Seal and Bearing Race Installation Tool
· Catch Tray and Container
· Hand Tools
· Engine Hoist [optional]

This seal had sealed its last. Circular seals are fragile. It's easy to damage these seals during ham-fisted axle removal or installation.

The springs on the back of the flexible seal are notorious for coming off and falling into dark reaches. Be careful not to send the spring into the engine, transmission, or differential.

No need to get precious getting a dead seal out of a transmission or engine. Pry the old seal out of the differential or transmission. A seal removal tool makes this task easy. A prybar or purpose bent screwdriver also works.

The seal and bearing race installation tool is the secret to seal installation. Choose a disc that is only slightly smaller or the same size of the seal itself, but still fits into the hole.

Seat the new seal by hand level into the mounting point. Tap the seal into place with the seal tool until the seal is fully seated. Go easy! Be careful not to deform the seal.

Making the Books
There are more or less two kinds of books when it comes to automobile repair. The first and most expensive are the factory service manuals. These are the same books the guys and gals at the dealership use to fix errant connecting rods or chase faulty electronics. If you're behind the wheel of something more or less modern, then the factory service manual may be the only option. Next in line are another kind of service manual. Companies like Haynes and Chiltons use factory service manuals along with cameras to dismantle then reassemble automobiles to produce their own repair books. These are usually geared more towards the shade free mechanic. Finding a service or repair manual is much like finding a car.

The Dealer
The first and most expensive option is to step up to the parts counter at the dealership. If the owner's manual in the glovebox has the same year on the cover as that magnetic calendar on the fridge, then forking over a pile of cash may be the only option until some time passes. This is usually a fairly painful financial experience. Forgo the tru-cote and ask for a copy of the factory sevis or repair manual instead.

Made of Wood
Call us crusty, but we still cling to this antiquated idea that a bookstore is still a good place to find books. Bookstores that specialize in motorized interests are a good place to find a service manual for that old SIMCA, oil-spewing NSU, or Fiat 500 stored in several five-gallon buckets in the backyard. There are even bookstores that specialize solely in automobile factory service manuals! Not surprisingly a number of these booksellers have something called a computer to help reunite books and car owners.

Swap Meet!
Summer means the return of flip flops and swap meets. The factory issue service manual and NOS windshield wiper knob for that '63 Plymouth Fury are out there. Don't just hit the automotive swaps. Branch out into flea markets and garage sales and keep your eyes open for a dog eared copy of the Chevy II twin-book set. Sometimes a book can garner interest in potential car purchases. Warning! A sawbuck plunked down for a seemingly harmless service manual can result in countless thousands of dollars sunk into project cars.

Message Board
One of the best ways to glean information about a particular make and model of automobile is to join a community that already exists. If you're the proud owner of something worthy of having its own message board then chances are good that someone truly dedicated has spent the time to either scan in the pages of the service manual, or host a digital version for members. Another great feature of message boards is that someone, perhaps even the chiseler upstanding citizen that sold you that bucket, has usually had the same mechanical problem before.

The Interwebs
A quick scan of the eBay or similar will reveal hundreds if not thousands of automotive service and repair manuals. Some of these are of the factory service variety. Others of the Hay-Chil sort. While we have scored quite a few genuine factory service manuals from eBay and other fine online retailers, there are also a great deal of crummy bootleg CD-ROM style deals floating around. Beware of the auctions accompanied by a heap of exclamation points. There are certainly more ways to find that service manual, so now it's time to tell the story of where you found your book or digital version in the comments.

Related:
And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Pad Swapping

While swapping in a new set of pads in place of worn out old ones seems a pretty simple, it is a task to best taken very seriously. There is zero room for short cuts or monkeying around when working on brakes. A service manual is crucial. A misstep made or shortcut taken during brake assembly could have dire circumstances. The exact procedure for getting to and replacing the brake pads is as varied as the many different kinds of cars in the world. If the brake pad swap is not completely obvious, then peer into the manual to solve any mysteries. Always check the condition of the brake rotor before installing new pads. If the rotor isn't excessively scored and still measures above minimum thickness then all is well. Swap out the old brake pads for new. If the rotor is too thin or full of peaks and valleys, then replace or resurface the rotor first. Brakes are not a place to skimp or save money.

Friction Materials Convention

The next choice to be made in a brake pad replacement is brake pad material itself. There is no one friction material that works best in every situation. Brake pad material designed for everyday mototring will quickly overheat during performance driving, causing rapid wear and brake fade. Super high-performance or racing brake pad material will never get hot enough to create braking friction in everyday driving. Running with race-compound brake pads on the street will just make a lot of noise, and can actually be dangerous. A general rule is the more aggressive the brake pad material, the faster the rotor will wear out. More noise should also be expected as friction material ratchets up the performance scale.

Extra Crispy

Selecting the right brake pad material starts with honesty. If driving down to the corner store for snacks is the routine, than super-performance brake pads are not required. If track days or canyon runs are marked out on the calendar, then a performance compounds may hold the answer. Organic pad material features normal stopping power and wear along with low or zero noise. Next up in line are the metallic or semi-metallic pads. Genuine metal makes these pads more aggressive, but can bring more noise and disc wear along to the brake party. Semi-metallic pads can be considered an upgrade over organics. Ceramic compounds allegedly offer the best of both worlds, with superior stopping power and long wear along with low or no noise. Another bonus to ceramics is lower dusting, which can keep those fancy wheels cleaner longer. Similar to tire compounds, brake pad friction material is about compromise. There is no free lunch.

Make Your Bed and Stop in It

Like a new set of Chuck Taylors a new set brake pads should be broken in for best results. One method is to drive around and make 8-10 full stops at moderate speeds followed by a cool-down period. Select a boulevard with a good amount of stoplights but not a ton of traffic. After the eight or tenth stop, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool for around 20 minutes. Don't set the parking brake! Go grab a burger, or coney island. Repeat the procedure on the way back to home base. The stopping and starting will heat cycle the material in the pads. Bed-in recommendations vary by manufacturer. Super performance pads may require specific bed-in procedures unique to pad material. While not entirely necessary with some compounds, running a bed-in is a good way to make sure everything was put back in the right way.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Service Manual
· Jack and Jack Stands
· Brake Pads
· Brake Parts Cleaner, and lots of it
· Catch Tray
· Gloves and Safety Goggles
· Hand Tools
· Torque Wrench
· Brake Caliper Tool(s)
· Brake Caliper Grease
· Brake Fluid

Jack up the old heap and remove the wheels. Use brake cleaner to remove brake dust and road grime. Do not use compressed air. Do not breathe brake dust. Handy tip for those inclined to immediately tear everything apart. Leave one side assembled for reference. Forgetting how the various anti-rattle clips, shims, and gizmos go back together is wicked easy to do.

New brake pads should never be installed onto excessively worn rotors or into spent and corroded brake calipers. Measure the rotor minimum thickness with an outside micrometer. The cheap plastic ones work fine for brake rotors. If the rotor is too thin it will overheat and warp. It may already have. Check rotor run-out (warping) with a dial gauge. Replace rotor if numbers don't mesh with those in the manual, or the minimum thickness stamped onto the rotor.

Get the hammer if you find one of these holding on the rotor and acting the goat. A smack or two on the screwdriver may be enough to loosen it. Still stubborn? Use an impact screwdriver. Penetrating or rust busting oil may also play a role.

If caliper removal is required to replace the pads, never let the caliper hang by the brake hose. Use a length of bailing wire or rest the caliper somewhere that causes no stress on the brake hose. Remove old pads and note position of clips, shims, and tabs.

These old pads still had some meat on 'em but were glazed. Delicious and sugary glaze is great on donuts, but lousy for brake pads. Glazed brake pads suffer a loss in efficiency as they lose their ability to bite into the rotor and create friction.

Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, and some of the brake fluid. As the brake pads wear they become thinner, and the brake caliper piston pushes outward. The space behind the caliper fills up with brake fluid. See the reason why some brake fluid needs to be removed in the next step. Danger! Brake fluid will destroy painted finishes.

To install the new and thicker pads onto the rotor, the caliper piston may need to be compressed back into the caliper with one of these fancy tools. This action will push brake fluid back up into the reservoir. Auto parts stores will rent you a box-o-brake tools on the cheap. An old brake pad or two, a screwdriver, and some leverage is another method. Clean off the caliper piston first, as not to send dirt back into the caliper. Brake cleaner!

These calipers had been on the car for a few presidents and needed some fresh grease on the caliper slider pins. If the manual calls for grease, use only high-temperature grease designed specifically for brakes. Regular grease will melt all over everything. Brakes get wicked hot. Glazing is for donuts.

Install new pads into caliper making sure all shims, anti-rattle clips, tabs, and gee-gaws are in the right place. Use brake cleaner to remove any greasy fingerprints and other contaminants from pad surfaces and rotor before mounting caliper on disc.

Mount caliper back on the on disc. Use a torque wrench to torque mounting bolts to specifications. Clean one last time with brake cleaner just for kicks. Depress brake pedal to seat caliper piston and pads. Spin the disc to make sure it spins. Check and add brake fluid if needed. Finish up the other side or other three, and then bleed the brakes.

Related:
Bleed the Brakes; And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Hygroscopic Action!

As do brake pads and rotors, brake fluid wears out. A more accurate description is that the fluid becomes contaminated with moisture by nature of being hygroscopic, which by definition means it has a tendency to absorb moisture from the atmosphere. Water in brake fluid bad news on two levels. Brake fluid is made to resist turning from a liquid into a gas - or boiling. Water turns from liquid to gas at 212 degrees. If the brake fluid absorbs too much water, its boiling will drop. When the brakes get hot the brake fluid will boil, and turn from liquid to gas. Not a good deal at all. Boiling of the trapped moisture also creates the vapors within the brake system, and may be where the air in the lines came from in the first place. Classic symptoms of air in the lines is a spongy brake pedal feel. Another problem with contaminated brake fluid is corrosion. Water in the brake fluid makes it corrosive to every part of the brake system. Regular flushing of brake fluid by way of bleeding can keep corrosion and brake failure away.

Dotted Lines

When it comes to bleeding brakes and replacing brake fluid try to use new brake fluid with the same DOT rating as the stuff that's already in there. DOT is an acronym for the Department of Transportation. Brake fluid is classified as DOT3, 4, 5 and so on. What the DOT ratings specify is the minimum boiling point of the brake fluid. Be wary of using some DOT 5 silicon-based brake fluids. These fluids get around the problem of water absorption by being not at all hygroscopic. While this solves one problem it creates another. Any water in the brake system settles at the lowest point, such as the bottom of a brake caliper piston. An extremely important thing to remember about brake fluid is that is will destroy painted finishes. When working with brake fluid always keep plenty of cool, clean water nearby. Immediately flush any spills. Always dispose of used brake fluid properly. Over the years we've tried plenty of different ways to bleed brakes, but always come back to this simple hose and catch container riff. We're counting on you to share your favorite brake bleeding methods or stories in the comments.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Service Manual
· About Two Hours
· Penetrating Oil or Similar Potion
· Brake Fluid
· Vinyl Tubing
· Bleed-o-Matic or Similar Catch Container
· Line or Box-End Wrench, Hand Tools
· Plenty of Cool, Clean, Water for Spills
· Siphon or Turkey Baster
· Jack and Jack Stands
· Catch Tray
· Helper [Optional]

Locate the bleed screws and spray some penetrating oil or similar miracle rust busting potion onto the threads. These small screws are notoriously easy to shear off. Miracle fluid will help them on their way. A light tap with a small hammer can also help break the threads loose. Go easy there, Thor.

Siphon off as much of the old crappy fluid as possible. Brake fluid should be clear, not dark brown as shown here. Top off reservoir with new clean fluid to the full level. Don't let the master cylinder run dry while bleeding. Try to use fluid from a fresh bottle. Brake fluid is hygroscopic even sitting on a shelf in a container. If using the turkey baster, don't use it to baste turkeys or roasts again. Remember: brake fluid will destroy paint.

Start with the caliper or wheel cylinder furthest away from the master cylinder. First mount a wrench on the screw in question, and then slip a bit of tubing over the end. Use a line wrench or the box end to prevent stripping. The other end of the tubing goes into a catch container. We like to use cheap clear vinyl tubing from the hardware store, and one of these bleed-o-matic deals with the magnet on it.

Crack the bleeder screw just enough to let fluid and ideally trapped air to escape. The trick is not to turn it so far that the screw lets air back in. Gravity may take effect here. Be prepared for brake fluid.

Go back into the car and slowly push down on the brake pedal once or twice. If you have an assistant, then have them push down on the pedal. Now is also a good time to replace any worn pedal covers. Close the bleed screw. The bleed screws are just as east to shear off while tightening as loosening. Check the catch container, and add more brake fluid to the reservoir if required.

Pump the brake pedal a few times. Open the bleed screw again. Repeat the opening of the screw and pushing down of the brake pedal until the brake fluid runs clear and bubble free into the catch container. Cinch up the bleed screw, and move on to the next nearest bleeder screw. Keep going until the fluid runs clear and free of bubbles from all four.

ABS equipped systems may require an additional step. This is where the service manual for your own fine automobile comes in handy. This giant firewall mounted slug of aluminum und schteel is the rear ABS brake actuator on a 1987 Starion. YMMV.

Another plan is to pick up one of these power bleeder deals, or make one from a plant sprayer and associated hardware. The idea is to pressurize the entire system at once, then bleed without the whole climbing in and out of the car and pushing the pedal deal. – Mike Bumbeck

Related:
And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Squeeze Play

An engine makes power by taking in a mixture of air and fuel, pushing the mixture into a confined space, and lighting it aflame. The energy from this explosion pushes the cylinder back down into the hole. Internal combustion! The valves and seals, pistons and rings, and cylinder wall surface all work together to create a tight seal. If any or all of these parts that confine the explosion inside the cylinder get beat up or wear out, engine performance suffers. The reason the old Plymouth was going nowhere despite a carburetor rebuild, tune-up, and so on, was that number two, number seven, and half of number five cylinders had almost no compression. The rest of the cylinders were not in much better shape. Confinement had been lost.

Divining Rod

In a perfect world, the parts inside an engine slowly wear out in unison. In every other world, this rarely happens. If an engine burns voluminous amounts of oil, is down on power, or is just plain running like crap, a compression test is a good way to check what's going on inside the engine without taking it apart. The thing to hope for from a compression test is even numbers. Good news if the cylinders check out within 10 or so PSI of each other, and those numbers sync up with the factory pressure specs. Bad news if one or more of the cylinders show a difference of 15 or more PSI. The service manual will supply guidance on drawing conclusions from test results, and will also list compression service limits. A leakdown tester, which fills the cylinder with compressed air, with can peer deeper into engine problems if the compression test reveals problems.

Little Squirt

If one cylinder shows a low reading, remove the compression tester and squirt some engine oil inside the spark plug hole. Test again. If the second test reveals a higher reading, then worn piston rings or cylinder walls may be the culprits. If the reading stays the same then suspect worn valves or other top end issues. If the gauge shows a very low or zero on any one or more of the cylinders then you too may be the proud owner of a V-5 and-a-half. The 4K-C in this Starlet is a four-stroke gasoline peanut grinder engine. Rotary, two-stroke, diesel, and perpetual motion engines call for a different riff. In any case an engine with low sealing compression in one or more cylinders will never run right - no matter how many new parts are connected to it. The compression test is a good baseline diagnostic and long-term financing tool. Where to spend money will soon be obvious!

Stuff You'll Need:

· About an Hour
· Service Manual
· A Healthy Battery
· Spark Plug Socket and Extension
· Hand Tools
· Compression Gauge Set
· Helper [Optional]

Prep for the compression test by making sure the battery is up to snuff, and warming up the engine. Warm parts make for a better seal and more accurate reading. Look in the service manual and see how to disable the ignition, and fuel system if required. In this case we just yanked the coil wire and the ingnitor connector from the distributor.

Remove all the spark plugs. Removing the spark plugs will let the engine turn over with ease. Don't mix up the wires. Like a slant six the Toyota 4K-C has spark plug tubes that like to come out with the plugs. Determine which tester adapter will work for your engine.

Some kits come with threaded adapters. If you're going solo then use the threaded bits. If you have a helper, then use the rubber-tipped extension deals. Either way the idea is to create the same seal as a spark plug while the engine is turning over. Don't over torque the adapters.

Mount the gauge to the adapter. Crank engine over a few times until the needle on the gauge stops climbing. Holding or propping the throttle plate open can speed up air intake. Record final reading on a scrap of paper or with a Sharpie on hand.

Hit the button on the gauge to release the pressure. Repeat compression test for each cylinder. Try not to knock your head on the hood when Beavis lays on the horn when you tell him to turn over the engine on number three. Record and compare final readings to factory specs. – Mike Bumbeck

Related:
Oil and Filter Change; And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Space Age Polymers

The thin layer of space age polymers that comprises modern automobile paint makes the difference between a car that's worth washing and waxing, and that chalk blue Gremlin that Uncle Vito drove around. The paint needs to stay strong enough to protect the steel underneath, yet flexible enough as not to dry out and lose its strength. Nothing beats up on paint like the relentless forces of sun and weather. Once the materials that keep the paint tough yet flexible get baked dry by the sun or wicked away by the rain, bad things start to happen.

Snake Oil

Cleaning first is the key to waxing later. A properly applied coat of protective wax acts as both a sealant to keep the good stuff inside your paint, and a shield to keep the bad stuff out. Which wax to use is open to freedom of choice. As we tend to stick with the classics a good old Carnauba paste or liquid is on the shelf. Others will rant on about the miracle of modern science and synthetic formulas. As with most things, if it sounds too good to be true it likely is. Quality is more important than type, and any protection is better than none at all.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Cool Shady Spot
· Water and Hose with Spray Nozzle
· Bucket of Soapy Water
· Clean Soft Towels of Some Kind
· Super Squeegee
· Top Quality Wax
· More Clean Soft Towels

Rinse it. Park the vehicle in some shade and hose it down from top to bottom with cool, clean water. Hose down that stinky dog if so equipped. Also spray any nearby cats.

Make soapy water. Use a quality soap made specifically for washing automobiles. Dish soap and the like will dry out automotive paint.

Wash it. Use plenty of soapy water and soft clean towels or sponges to wash away dirt and grime. Making waxy scratches in the paint by pushing dirt around is not the desired result.

Rinse it down again. Work from top to bottom to remove detergent. This time say goodbye to dirt and crud.

Dry it. One of the better sawbucks ever spent was on one of these silicone blade squeegee gizmos. Finish drying with soft terrycloth towels or chamois. These microfiber towels work swell too. If a compressor sits in the garage fire it up and use compressed air blow water out of crevices.

Wax on! Apply a thin coat of wax in a circular pattern to a small area at a time. Be careful not to get wax on trim bits or lodged in cracks. Work in the shade. NEVER apply wax in direct sunlight or attempt to apply wax to a hot painted surface. The wax can bake on and become wicked hard to remove.

Wax off! First let the wax to haze over and dry. Next use clean, soft cloths to remove wax. Rotate the cloth surface and shake out any excess wax and as you go. Tip: tear those corner labels off cloths to prevent making scratches.

All manner of modern machines and miracle products are available for the task of washing and waxing. The safest and gentlest on paint method is a good old hand wax. Buffers and polishers can do the job but can also cause damage. – Mike Bumbeck

[A special thanks to various pals, neighbors, and the Analog Assassins for helping out]

Related:
Wheel Cleaning Tips in Detail; And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

50 Dollar Paint [rickwrench.com]

Related:
World's Largest Corvair [Internal]

Dusted Flakes

The majority of what ends up all over the wheels in normal driving is dust from the brake pads. Barrel-assing around will require more braking power to stop, and will create more dust. Switching brake pad compounds can help, but brake dust is inevitable. The rest of the crud can come from sources as common as road grime or nefarious as neighborhood cats and dogs. At best the wheels get filthy. In a very worst-case scenario the contaminants in the dust and grime can etch into the wheel finish or paint, and even the wheels themselves. Road salt accomplishes this task very well. Corrosion and pitting will require expensive wheel refinishing.

Brush Off

The procedure for cleaning and detailing wheels on an automobile varies with the type and finish of wheel. Before washing or detailing any wheels make certain they are cool to the touch. Brakes get hot, and so do the wheels. Hosing down hot wheels to speed things up will warp brake discs about as quick. While we know as well as you that there are scads of these bottled miracle spray cleaners, make sure the formula is compatible with the wheel finish by testing on a small area before coating the entire wheel. Some of these cleaners can cause damage to certain finishes. One-step cleaners are sometimes a good quick fix but where's the fun in that? Bring a bucket.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Dirty and/or Crusty Wheels
· Bucket of Warm Soapy Water
· All Manner of Scrub Brushes
· Towels
· Chrome Polish, Aluminum Polish, or similar
· Carnauba Wax, or Similar
· Hose and Spray Nozzle

Park the vehicle in the shade. Allow wheels and brakes to cool. Cold water and hot brakes make for warped rotors. Don't do it, man! Hose off dust and debris only after wheels and brakes are cool to the touch.

Painted finish wheels should be cared for in much the same way as paint on the car. Washing followed by a good coat of wax will help prevent brake dust from sticking to the spokes. Use soap, water and brushes to remove built up dust, grime, and debris.

Getting rid of stuck on dirt is easier with brushes. Make sure the bristles won't damage finishes before diving in too deep. Long-handled brushes can help prevent aching backs, and get in-between spots. Bottle-type brushes can help remove dirt from spokes and brake calipers.

Chrome finish and polished aluminum wheels look similar, but require different care. Don't apply wax to chrome finish wheels, as the chrome needs to breathe. Use a polish or cleaner made for use with chrome.

Polished aluminum wheels are a perpetual cleaning affair. The oxidation process begins as soon as shine is achieved. Magnesium in the aluminum alloy wants to turn dull gray. Be careful with one-step cleaners on polished aluminum.

One-step cleaners can be very effective, but test on a small area first before coating the entire wheel. Keep a hose nearby in case bad, corrosive things start to happen.

Removing the wheel and cleaning the backside can add a higher level of detail. Scrubbing will most likely be required to remove years of collected crud.

A shining wheel backside can make the front side appear brighter by reflecting more light back through the spokes. Potrzebie! – Mike Bumbeck

Related:
Polishing Aluminum Wheels; And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Related:
More Car Care Amusement [Internal]

Hey, Leadfoot - Take it Easy!

You know that lever on a John Deere tractor that has a rabbit on one end and a turtle on the other? Go turtle. Using the throttle as an on-off switch is all fine and good, but will result in poor fuel economy. Take it easy on the throttle and slow down. Gas mileage drops off quickly over 60 mph due to increased aerodynamic forces.

Flotsam and Jetsam

Carrying around spare batteries or bags of rocks leftover from winter traction efforts is not be the best thing for mileage. An extra 100 pounds in a vehicle can reduce mileage by two percent. The lighter the vehicle the higher the percentage of loss. Not ordering that second Double-Double with shake may also help to reduce on board weight.

Tire Pressure

Maintaining the correct tire pressure is something easy to do that can save some gas. Be reasonable with the pressure. Inflating tires gonzo style until they sound like teakwood when tapped with your cigarette holder is a dramatic yet unsafe solution.

Frozen Solid

That dragging brake pad or shoe can be robbing mileage. Frozen brake calipers or a sticky emergency brake can scrub off fuel efficiency. Bring the brakes up to speed and make sure the wheel bearings are in decent shape. Pack those bearings full of the good grease.

Change Your Oil

Change out the oil and filter. And don't stop with just the engine oil. Change all of it. Transmission Oil. Gear Oil. Transfer case. Pomade. Everything. Superior lubrication means less friction. Windage losses are also very real. Using a higher than recommended viscosity oil can cause a measurable loss in mileage.

Super Regularity!

If your vehicle is not designed to take advantage of the extra octane in super-grade gasoline then you are literally throwing away money by putting that super tiger in the tank. If your old bucket runs better on super there is probably enough caked on carbon on the pistons and valves inside the engine to start a diamond mine.

Don't Drive

Employ feet. Ride a skateboard. Pedal a cycle without snobbery. Form a carpool to get to work. Four people in one Gremlin is three less cars using gas - and more money for other liquids. Drive not begrudgingly to work. Nay! Drive because driving is fun. Install a hammock or above ground pool for at home debauchery vacationing.

Atomic Car of the Future!

While atomic cars were a part of a retro future that somehow never came, driving 400 miles a day in a vehicle that gets 12 mpg may not be the best plan for the present. Picking up a more fuel efficient runabout may be a practical answer to short term transportation expense problems.

Turn it Off

No it does not take more gas to start and stop an engine then it does letting it idle away while eating a sangwich or waiting at the drive-thru for an ultimate bacon triple double okra burger. Turning the engine off uses no fuel at all. An engine idling away idly gets zero mpg.

Tune In

Keep your engine in tune. Malfunctioning oxygen sensors, clogged catalytic converters, fouled spark plugs, or recalcitrant fuel injectors that burble instead of spray forth can all cause a drastic loss in engine efficiency. Even something as simple as replacing a clogged air filter can make a measurable improvement in gas mileage.

– Mike Bumbeck

Modern Realism

Wheel bearings need grease like tires need air. A swell time to inspect and grease up the wheel bearings is when wrestling with brake pads or brake caliper removal. Halfway there is always a good reason to press on. While some bearings are relatively easy to inspect and service, others are pressed onto axles or worse - of the captured bearing variety. Specialized tools and procedures make captured bearing service best left to the professional. Front wheel bearings on rear-drive cars are fairly basic.

Whine and Grind

When bearings go bad the noise is usually speed specific - clicks, groans, rumbles and noise that varies according to the speed of the spinning wheel in which the bearing is contained. A quick way to check wheel bearings without disassembly is to jack the wheel in question up off the ground, grab it from both the top and the bottom, and attempt to move it. There should be very little or no movement. Lots of slop? Read on.

Bearing Inspector

Reading bearings involves taking a look. Peer closely for loose or broken tapered rollers, scored race or roller surfaces, or excessive play in the assembly. The shiny surface of a bearing is hardened, and should be of a uniform color. Hot spots, different color lines or scoring indicate wear through to the softer metal underneath. Worst-case scenario? Friction created by a cooked bearing can generate enough heat to shear an axle. One of your own wheels bouncing down the road ahead of you is never a good thing.

Bad Cholesterol

Top quality high-temperature wheel bearing grease is the key to wheel bearing longevity. Brakes convert vehicle inertia into heat as they impart whoa. A lot of heat. Low temperature or chassis grease will liquefy and slip-up the brakes. The other rule of grease is that grease types are not always compatible. Out with the old and in with the new. Use solvent to remove grease and dirt from bearings. Let the wheel bearing air dry. Always relubricate with high temperature wheel bearing grease of the same type.

Perfect Match

Replace wheel bearings, seals, races, and so on as a matched set. Bearing quality, as we recently discovered, makes a difference. Spending some extra money for good bearings now can save time later. A seal and race driver tool set makes seating in the races and seals a breeze. A solid drift works much better than a screwdriver for batting bearing races out of the hub. Always use a new cotter pin as a finishing touch. One penny is cheap insurance against wheels liberating themselves from axles.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Matched Set of Wheel Bearings and Seals
· Jack and Jack Stands
· Vehicle Service Manual
· Hand Tools
· Seal and Race Driver Set
· Wheel Bearing Grease
· Brake Cleaner, or similar

With wheel, and brake caliper removed use a screwdriver to gently pry the bearing grease cup away from the hub. A tap with a rubber mallet can help loosen things up. Turning the wheel a little each time helps get the job done. Never let brake calipers hang by the brake hoses. That's what bailing wire is for.

Remove the cotter pin, retaining ring, and axle spindle nut. Use the dust cap to keep all the parts together. Grab the disc and remove the hub or rotor-hub assembly from the axle. The outer wheel bearing will drop out.

Inspect bearings and races for scoring, flat spots, cracks or broken rollers. Also take a good look at the seal. If all is well then repack with grease and put it all back together. If not then bust out the new bearings and seals.

Use a drift and hammer to knock the outer race from the hub. Tap alternately on each side of the race to prevent cracking it. Flip over the hub and use the same procedure to knock out the inner race, bearing, and seal. A block of wood or old brake rotor can help.

Pack the new inner and outer wheel bearings by either pressing grease in by hand or using a fancy bearing packing tool and grease gun. The idea is to force the grease inside the cage and rollers.

Selecting the right size driver is the key to driving home the races and seals. Hammer time. Drive in the inner race. Make sure the race is seated all the way. Place bearing in race and pack in some grease. Use the tool again to seat the grease seal. Flip over the hub and repeat for the outer race. Seat the races and seals in level. Driving them in crooked will peg the swear-o-meter.

Pack in a good amount but do not completely fill inside the hub with grease. Place hub on spindle. Put the outer wheel bearing, washer, and axel nut back on. While spinning hub tighten axle nut enough to seat the whole assembly. Loosen the nut, then re-tighten by hand to specifications. Do not overtighten! Too much load will cook the bearings in short order.

Replace retaining ring and secure with new cotter pin. Never reuse cotter pins. Replace bearing grease cup being careful not to inflict too many bearing interfering dents. Clean all excess grease from outside of hub with brake cleaner - the stuff of miracles. Don't forget the calipers. With the wheel installed check for play. – Mike Bumbeck

Related:

Using a Floor Jack and Jack Stands; And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Consider the Years

Odds are if the shock absorbers or springs of the strut assembly are worn beyond useful service the rest of the suspension components could also be kaput. Since disassembly of the suspension is often required to service the struts this is also a good time to inspect and replace ball joints, tie-rod ends, sway bar end link bushings, and the like. Now onward.

See Part One Here

Stuff You'll Need:

· Repair or Service Manual
· Set of Replacement Strut Inserts (Shock Absorbers)
· Jack and Jack Stands
· Spring Compressor
· Air Powered or Electric Impact Wrench (Compressor Required for Air Tools)
· Impact Sockets
· Hand Tools
· Strut Bearings (if worn)
· Replacements for Rotten Rubber Parts (if worn)
· Penetrating Oil
· Automatic Transmission Fluid
· Rags
· Table Mounted Vice
· Torque Wrench!
· At Least Four Hours
· 20-Year Old Mitsubishi Starion, or Similar

With the strut free of the spring and strut bearing it's time to get at the strut insert or shock absorber. Use a table vice and rag to hold the strut tube. Take it easy with vice as not to deform the strut tube. Set up a catch container, and remove the big gland nut from strut tube. If the gland nut puts up a fight, try tapping it on the face with a hammer to break loose the crud stuck in the threads. Crusty old oil may come forth. Remove the old strut insert.

Next stand the strut upright in the vice and add recommended type and amount of oil while moving the new strut up and down in the tube. An inch plus under the top of the tube is a good bet to allow room for expansion. We used some automatic transmission fluid. The oil is there to help transfer heat away from the strut insert. Corrosion prevention is a bonus.

Install gland nut being careful not to nick or scratch the surface of the piston rod. Tighten gland nut to seat strut insert in strut tube. No we don't know why it's called a gland nut.

Check strut insulators. These are also called strut bearings. The insulator on the left is shot. Kaput. The isolator on the right is fresh from sitting ten years in some warehouse in Japan. Note difference in height. If yours look like mushrooms from Super Mario Brothers then they need replacement.

Reassemble the strut lining up those index marks. Install top nut and seat it by hand to hold assembly together. Slowly release pressure on the spring compressor making sure the spring seats properly in the strut housing. Torque top nut with a torque wrench to specification from the service manual.

Sealant may be required to keep water and road crud out of the ball joint. The locating dowel pins on the knuckle are there to help, not hurt. Put your foot down again on the lower control arm to gain enough clearance for the strut.

Reinstall strut and use a torque wrench to torque fasteners to specification. Torque the top mounting bolts. Tight enough is not good enough. Reinstall anything removed to access the strut.

With the car on the ground give it a few jounces to settle the suspension. Double-check strut bearing top nut torque and mounting bolt torque. Pack isolator bearing with grease and replace the dust cap. Recheck all upper bolt torque after test-driving vehicle. Success! – Mike Bumbeck

Related:
And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts: Replace Struts - Part 1; Replace Shock Absorbers

Scots Buy

The MacPherson strut was just one part of the entire MacPherson suspension, which provided not only light weight but set the bulk of the suspension mass of the low on the vehicle. This placement improved handling. The integral strut and spring simplifies and lightens the front suspension by eliminating the need for an upper control arm and ball joint. The spring, shock absorber and wheel spindle are combined into one integral unit. Since this setup makes sense from a both a manufacturing cost and weight savings standpoint it is still used on many vehicles today.

Out in Front of the Back

Another suspension pioneer is credited for putting the same type of setup in the rear of a vehicle - namely a Lotus. Chapman Struts are named after Lotus engineer Colin Chapman, whose suspension and chassis building prowess put his name into the Formula One and Indy 500 history books along with forever cementing Lotus as a performance marque. Although Chapman Struts are very similar in design to MacPherson struts we'll be rolling stock for the purposes of this article. Building and installing coilovers along with higher performance adjustable suspensions will most certainly come around the Jalopnik later on.

Capture the Shock

One drawback of the MacPherson strut setup becomes apparent when it comes time to replace the worn out shock absorber at the center of the strut. The entire strut assembly must be dismantled to release the shock absorber section from its location within the strut housing. With a double wishbone or leaf spring type suspension the shock absorber can easily be removed without any major hassles, as it is usually not captured by the spring. More complicated still is that a good number of components often must be removed to get at the struts themselves. So it goes. Simplicity in design and manufacture brings complications in maintenance.

Hot Compress

There is a simple solution to this vexing mechanical problem. Replacing the shock absorber or strut insert inside the MacPherson strut requires a tool known as a spring compressor. With the spring compressed and held in steel claws, the unit can be disassembled. The entire strut and shock absorber can then be easily serviced. Warning! Great care must be taken when using a spring compressor. The springs held captive inside the strut assemblies are designed to support the weight of the vehicle and passengers. Tremendous force required to compress even one of these springs. Great bodily harm can result if this force is suddenly released from the spring compressor in the form of a flying spring. Use extreme caution when it comes to using any type of spring compressor.

Remove and Replace

A good option for those living without spring compressor is to replace the entire strut with a ready made complete assembly. Instead of removing the used up shock absorber or strut insert from the assembly by way of a spring compressor, the entire strut assembly is simply be swapped out. Like a loaded brake caliper the strut assembly comes ready to install - no spring compressor required! Another advantage of these units is that as shocks wear out so do springs, and replacing both as a unit not only saves time, but can restore sagging rides. These assemblies are a fairly recent aftermarket innovation they not yet available for every vehicle on the road. As they will most likely never be available for the Mitsubishi Starion, at least not in this universe, away we go.

NOTE: As replacing struts is a complicated deal - we're breaking this procedure into two parts. This week removal. Next week install.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Repair or Service Manual
· Set of Replacement Strut Inserts (Shock Absorbers)
· Jack and Jack Stands
· Spring Compressor
· Air Powered or Electric Impact Wrench (Compressor Required for Air Tools)
· Impact Sockets
· Hand Tools
· Strut Bearings (if worn)
· Replacements for Rotten Rubber Parts (if worn)
· Penetrating Oil
· At Least Four Hours

With the vehicle secured on jack stands access the struts by removing brake calipers, rotors, hubs, or any other components specified in the suspension chapter of the service manual. This is a very simple rear-drive setup. Front wheel drive adds drive axles, complexity, and more swearing. Now is a good time to use some penetrating oil on potentially stubborn bolts and fasteners.

Remove the upper strut mounting bolts on top of the strut tower.

Remove the bolts that hold the ball joint knuckle arm and strut together. If the vehicle has a sway bar loosen the end-link bushings. This will provide more travel in the lower control arms. The impact wrench is great for removing bolts, but always put them back in by hand to prevent instant thread stripping. Use impact sockets. Regular sockets will disintegrate.

Use a pry bar to separate the strut from the ball joint knuckle arm. Note locating dowels.

Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle. Putting your foot down will work this time, and can help achieve the clearance required to remove the strut. A gentle push on the lower control arm is what needs to happen. If using this method with front or rear half-shaft axles involved, be wary not to yank the half-shafts out of the transmission or rear differential.

Mark the spring seat and spring to index components for reassembly. Use a grease or paint marker so that the marks don't rub off during ham-fisted disassembly.

Compress the spring using the spring compressor. Use hand tools and work slowly. Never use impact or power tools to compress or decompress a spring with a spring compressor. The sudden movement created by an impact wrench can cause the jaws to slip and send springs flying. Don't go nuts - compress just enough of the spring to relieve pressure on the assembly.

Here is where the impact wrench comes in handy. Use it to remove the top nut holding the strut bearing and strut together. The quick action will remove the top bolt in a hurry without disturbing the spring compressor. Gently remove the strut from the spring, being careful not to disturb the spring compressor. Think Wile E. Coyote and those humongous cartoon bear traps. Keep parts in order for removal and reassembly - which we'll cover next week. – Mike Bumbeck

Related:
Replace Shock Absorbers; Using a Floor Jack and Jack Stands; And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Damp Effects

Bounce a superball onto hard concrete and it bounces right back. When the collective weight of that 1971 Dodge Demon pushes down onto its torsion bars and springs, the springs in turn want to push the car back up into the air like the superball. So it goes. Take that same superball and toss it into thick deep mud instead of onto hard concrete. It will stop dead. The shock absorber is the mud in the suspension. Inside the shock absorber is a cylinder full of oil, and sometimes a pressurized inert gas. The mud - such as it is. Through a series of valves the shock absorber uses this oil and gas to dampen the energy of the spring, and keep the car from bouncing about. Tires stay on the road where they belong. Vehicle control is maintained!

Bounce Test

The valves and seals inside the shock absorbers get beat up over time and wear out. Wicked bumpy roads or over enthusiastic driving can accelerate this process. As the wear usually happens in an almost imperceptible fashion, watching for the signs of worn shock absorbers is safe thinking. The car bouncing about the road while attempting to drive is the most glaring sign of worn shock absorbers. Cupped tire wear is another sign of dead shocks. Worn shock absorbers wear out tires in cupped strips or odd patterns because the tires spend half their time in the air, and the other half smacking the pavement. Testing the shocks by giving a good downward push on a corner of the vehicle is old school test. Watch for bouncing. Four bouncing balls with a car on top of them is not the best scenario for superior handling, safe braking, or long tire life.

Strut or Shock?

Removing and replacing the shock absorbers is usually a relatively straightforward nuts-and-bolts type procedure if the springs and shock absorbers are divorced - and not integrated into what is known as a MacPherson strut assembly. The best way to find out if the shock absorbers are of the divorced spring and shock, or MacPherson variety, is to take a look either under the vehicle or in the service manual. If the spring and shock can clearly be seen as two distinct parts then Scotsmen have had no influence on your suspension. If the spring and strut and spindle is an all-in-one unit then a tool called a spring compressor is required to liberate the shock absorber or strut insert from the MacPherson strut assembly. We'll get into spring compressors, innovative and lasting Scottish suspension engineering, and strut assemblies next week.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Repair or Service Manual
· Set of Replacement Shocks
· Jack and Jack Stands
· Hand Tools
· Penetrating Oil

The bounce test is one way to figure out if the shocks have gone soft. Push down on the vehicle and release your grip. Watch to see if the body bounces around three or four times, or recovers and settles quickly. Bouncing is not good.

If you see something like this up under the car then tune in next week. This is a spring compressor on a MacPherson strut. The shock absorber is held captive by the assembly. The shock absorber works more or less the same way, but removal and replacement is more involved.

To get at the shocks first remove interior covers to access upper shock mounting nuts. Loosen and remove nut. If shock shaft spins with the nut, use pliers or a wrench on top to hold things in place.

Jack up the vehicle. Use some penetrating oil to help loosen stubborn or rusty bolts down under. Go make a sangwich, or read Jalopnik for a while. Let the oil do its work.

Remove the lower shock mounting nut and washer. Remove old shock absorber. A pry bar in between the shock mount and the shock comes in handy under extra crusty conditions.

Compare new and old shock absorber. All grommets and bushings have to go in the same spots. Note plastic strap on new shock. Don't cut or remove the strap just yet.

Mount lower end of shock first. Tighten lower mounting bolts. Line up top of shock in mount before cutting retaining strap.

Don't forget to put the grommets on top of the shock absorber where it meets the underside of the chassis. Cut the retaining strap, and guide shock into place.

Install the upper grommets and mounting nuts. Reinstall wheels. Lower vehicle. Torque down the wheel lugnuts! Jounce vehicle 3-6 times to settle the grommets and suspension. Retighten upper bolts if required. Tighten the bolts just enough to slightly compress the grommets. Think skateboard trucks.

If a locknut is supplied use two wrenches to tighten the mounting nuts against each other to lock them together. This trick also works in reverse to break loose locked nuts. – Mike Bumbeck

Next Week: MacPherson Struts

Related:
Using a Floor Jack and Jack Stands; And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Related:
And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Corn Flakes

Buffing out aluminum to a mirror shine involves smoothing out the irregular surfaces of the metal itself on a level unseen to the naked eye. Under an atomic-powered electron microscope, the surface of a dull or pitted aluminum wheel would look sort of like a bowl of 99-cent store corn flakes - full of jagged peaks and valleys. When light hits rough surfaces it diffuses and dissipates. We see dull. A polished aluminum surface under a microscope looks more like a bowl of hot Cream-o-Wheat - slightly bumpy, but mostly smooth and flat. When light hits a mostly flat reflective surface it has nowhere to go but right back at you. The jagged peaks get knocked down by buffing.

Don't Let the Smooth Taste Fool You

The best way to smooth out a bowl of cornflakes is to eat it. Smoothing the peaks and valleys of aluminum requires use of a series of buffing wheels and polishing compounds. The buffing wheel works with the embedded abrasive buffing compounds to smooth out the aluminum. Steps and stages are key. Each wheel and compound must be used in sequence. Stiff buffing wheels with coarser compounds work into softer buffing wheels and less aggressive compounds to produce the shine. The right balance of buffing wheel revolution and pressure is brings it all together. Too little pressure and compound along with bits buffing wheel will end up all over the garage. Too much pressure and the compound can dig in and burn the surface instead of buffing it. Practicing on the back of the wheel before going nuts on the front is a good idea. Work from coarse to smooth. Use a dedicated buffing wheel for each compound.

Buffed Out

While standalone buffing machines are very handy and not really all that pricey, we didn't have one. We weren't out to win any Funkmaster Flex car show trophies anyway, so we used a 29-buck handheld buffer and a few 6" buffing wheels. We were shooting for a shining set of daily drivers on the cheap. As with using any type of power tools caution must be taken. At best bits of the buffing wheel, compound, and microscopic aluminum dust will get everywhere. At worst, high RPM high torque power tools can be dangerous! Wear a mask, gloves, and safety goggles at all times while buffing aluminum. Make sure the wheels are bare aluminum before beginning. Any paint or clearcoat on the wheels will be quickly destroyed by the buffing process.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Crusty Set of Mag Wheels
· Degreaser, Bucket, and Scrubbing Stuff
· Utility Knife and Hand Tools
· Hose and Nozzle
· Power Buffer of Some Kind
· Buffing Wheels and Arbor
· At Least Three Degrees Buffing Compound (Coarse, Medium, Fine)
· Clean Rags
· Safety Goggles, Gloves, and a Mask

Remove anything that will get in the way of buffing. Valve stems. Wheel weights. And so on. Make like Mr. Clean with the degreaser and remove all dirt and crud. Grab the hose and rinse the wheels. Buffing crud into the aluminum with power tools is a bad idea. Don't run the wheels through the dishwasher. People get mad.

Deposit the wheel onto a five-gallon bucket. The local donut shop is a good source for five-gallon buckets. Some even smell apple-filling fresh. Use a flat file to smooth out any nasty curb rash. Don't go crazy removing material. Just knock it down mostly flat so it the buffing wheels don't get caught on jagged aluminum and disintegrate.

Buffing compounds are made in abrasive degrees with wheels to match. Coarse. Medium. Fine. Start with a bit of the coarsest or most abrasive compound on the stiffest buffing wheel.

Use the right combination of revolution and pressure to get the compound working. Let the buffing wheel material and compound do the work. Buff one section at a time, overlapping slightly until the whole wheels is done.

Clean the entire wheel surface of buffing compound in between each step. If the balance is right there won't be much to clean off.

Use a separate wheel for each compound to stop contamination between steps. Here a less abrasive compound is used with a loose sewn wheel for a finish buff.

Use a hand-applied liquid polish for the last and final step. Clean all the buffing compound and cloth off the safety goggles and buff out the other three wheels. – Mike Bumbeck

Related:

And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Coolant Crusted

A regular check of coolant level will indicate if the system is holding its own. Check the coolant only when the engine is cold, and on a level surface by removing the radiator cap and peering inside the filler neck. Never open a cooling system when the engine is hot. If the coolant level in the radiator or coolant reservoir is below normal, or if there are the tell tale signs of coolant leakage on the garage floor first inspect the radiator and heater hoses and water pump for leaks. Take a good look at the hose clamps and make sure they're snug. A leaking system cannot maintain the pressure required for coolant circulation. The engine will run hot as hot as a boiling kettle and eat itself up.

Core Issues

If a look inside the radiator reveals coolant the color of iron oxide then it might be time for radiator replacement or repair. The radiator is comprised of a core and surrounding tanks. The core contains the coolant channels and fins that transfer heat away from the coolant and into the air. The tank surrounds the core and holds everything together. Older cores are made of copper and brass. More modern cores are made from aluminum. Tanks can be made of brass, copper, aluminum, or plastic depending on if the car was made recently or long ago. Inspect the finned surfaces and seams where the fins join up with the surrounding tank for leaks. Obvious leaks mimic a bright green Vesuvius. Other leaks are harder to locate and may require pressure testing of the cooling system along with removal and testing of the radiator itself.

Repair or Replace?

We get asked this question all the time and we're going to answer it by saying yes, radiators can be repaired. This is good news to motorists who like us have cars manufactured on the Island of Misfit Toys, for which there is no replacement radiator available. If the radiator is in good shape overall both core and tank leaks can be repaired. If the core is rotten but the end tanks appear OK a local radiator shop can install a new core in no time. For composite plastic and aluminum radiators the best bet may be replacement, but even these can be repaired. Each type of setup presents its own repair challenges. The one way to keep the radiator and entire cooling system in good shape is to change and flush the coolant according to manufacturers recommendations. Neglected coolant becomes corrosive and can cause a myriad of problems.

Temporary Fix

While cracking eggs and pouring ground black pepper into the radiator filling neck, or applying JB Weld may or may not temporarily stop a radiator leak, the problem will be sure to return. A good radiator repair shop will be able to tell whether radiator repair is an option, or if a replacement radiator is the answer. It may be more cost effective to actually replace the radiator in some cases. Another option to consider is getting a heavy-duty or three-row core installed in place of a rotten two-row core for improved cooling. Removing and replacing a radiator is well within the scope of the DIY mechanic. Repairing or recoring a radiator is a job best left to the radiator shop. Use those eggs for an delicious omelet instead. Black pepper to taste.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Your Friendly Neighborhood Radiator Shop
· Hand Tools to Remove the Radiator
· Catch Container to Drain the Coolant
· Some Cash to Pay the Radiator Shop
· Distilled Water and Engine Coolant

Obvious symptoms of a leaking radiator are coolant spraying forth or steam. Subtle signs of a leaking radiator are discoloration and crusty dried coolant deposits. Upon removal this radiator revealed the source of a slow leak. Off to the radiator shop.

Expansion plugs are installed into the inlet and outlets of the radiator. These plugs seal things up so a pressure cap on the filler neck can pressurize the radiator with air.

Into the soup. The radiator is submerged and then pressurized. Any leaks will reveal themselves by a stream of air bubbles escaping from the radiator.

Once out of the soup some flux is applied to the leak area in preparation for the repair.

With some flame, solder, and more flux the radiator will soon be good as new.

The radiator goes back into the tank and is pressurized once again to test the repair. Success! Take it home and put it back into the car. – Mike Bumbeck

Related:
Replace a Radiator or Heater Hose; Replace a Thermostat; Replace a Water Pump; And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

How To Use Shoe Goo [Eclectic Products]

Related:
Tubular Liquid Steel [internal]

At the heart of the cooling system is the water pump. It spins as does the engine in order to continuously circulate engine coolant through the automotive cooling system. Out from the engine, into the radiator, and then back again. So goes the water-cooled internal combustion engine. If the water pump fails in its task the cooling system will have the automotive equivalent of a heart attack. A few miles outside of Baker, California on a 107-degree day is usually where a water pump clutches its chest and quits. Steam pouring from under the hood and an engine clattering from detonation are sure signs of heart failure.

Sealed Impeller

The water pump takes its circulating power from the engine. Most operate through a belt and pulley and others via a gear or chain. The power spins a shaft on which there is an impeller. As the impeller spins it circulates coolant in much the same way a propeller on a boat works to tow drunken water skiers. The shaft and impeller spin on sealed bearing. Sealed, in order to prevent coolant from escaping the confines of the cooling system. This bearing is the part of a water pump that usually wears out first - followed by the shaft chewing up the pump housing.

Weeping Pump

A water pump that is about to give up the ghost will bleed or leak coolant. Coolant weaping from the underside of the water pump is the beginning of the end. The bearing inside the pump may also howl before it comes apart. Tell tale signs of a failing water pump are coolant leaks originating from the water pump, or if you're really out of luck, the water pump behind the timing cover of the engine. Coolant leaks can be tricky things to isolate. Check all the hoses and clamps and radiator itself before digging into the water pump and finding a heater hose was leaking coolant thanks to a broken 17-cent hose clamp.

Eat Your Vegetables

Since a water pump is either working or not replacement is a matter of necessity or preventive maintenance. If the water pump is leaking or puking coolant through a an unsealed bearing or cracked housing then it obviously needs to be replaced. Preventative maintenance is a good plan if the cooling system is half apart anyway, or if the water pump lives behind the timing cover or some more nefarious location. Water pumps that get their power from the timing belt or chain are often located inside the engine, and best replaced when servicing either component, or vice versa.

Five Servings

With any luck the water pump will be mounted to the engine in such a way that it can be easily removed and replaced. This is true of the good lot of water pumps. If leaking coolant is obvious but the location of the water pump is a source of great mystery, then the engineer that designed the cooling system has played a cruel joke on the DIY greasemonkey. Once again we cannot stress enough that the most important tool in the toolbox is a service manual. Search the message boards for digital copies if driving a Meapsy or a Citro n Ami. If the water pump is easy to find then it should be fairly easy to remove and replace. If not then some reading may be required. The following should supply a basic idea of water pump removal and replacement.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Vehicle Service Manual
· A Replacement Water Pump and Gasket
· Engine Coolant
· Distilled Water
· Hand Tools
· Catch Container
· Drip Pan
· Scraper
· Replacement Belt (optional)
· Anti-Sieze Compound
· Ramps or Jack and Jack Stands

Remove the radiator cap and drain the coolant. Look for the drain petcock on the bottom of the radiator. Remove the radiator hose or hoses. It may be easier to replace the water pump with the radiator removed. Now is also a good time to replace the radiator or have it recored it rot has set in. If the radiator remains be careful not to ding it or the AC condenser up with ham-fisted wrenching.

On v-belt equipped engines break loose, but do not remove, the water pump pulley bolts before releasing belt tension. The tension will prevent the pulley from spinning instead of the bolts. Drop v-belt tension at the alternator and remove belt from pulley. Remove the pulley bolts and the water pump pulley. Serpentine belts employ a spring-loaded tensioner. Throw a wrench on the tensioner to achieve belt slack.

Loosen and remove water pump bolts. Important! Take note of bolt length and mounting location. These bolts can extend into the engine and can cause problems reinstalled in the wrong location. Remove the water pump. Be prepared for more coolant with a drip pan under the engine. Engine coolant is poisonous, but dogs and cats can't read.

Use a scraper to free the engine side mounting surface of all old gasket material and sealant. This task will supply plenty of time to curse the previous owner who gave cousin Leo a six-pack to install the water pump using an entire tube of RTV silicone. Do not use silicone sealant unless the service manual calls for it. Sealing is what the gasket is for. Removal of all the old gasket material is the key to new gasket sealing.

Compare the old and new water pumps and bolts. Sometimes the mounting ears on replacement pumps are of different than stock, and require a trip to the hardware store for different length bolts. When installing bolts use a small amount of anti-seize compound on the threads to help prevent galling, stripped threads, and swearing.

Place a new gasket on the water pump. Gasket sealer works great for holding the gasket to the pump. Put a thin coat on the pump, and another on the gasket. After the sealant dries mount the gasket. No glue huffing! Install the pump. Tighten bolts to recommended torque. Reverse the take everything out of the engine bay to get to the water pump procedure. Don't forget to close the radiator drain petcock.

Either return original coolant to the cooling system or refill the radiator a 50-50 mix of new coolant and distilled water. Minerals in tap water can cause corrosion, which can kill water pumps. Fill radiator 3/4 or so full. Start engine. Turn on heater. Slowly top off radiator with engine running to burp any trapped air from the cooling system. Replace radiator cap. Watch for leaks. – Mike Bumbeck

Related:
Replace a Radiator or Heater Hose; Replace a Thermostat; And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Related:
Art Plus Cars Plus Epoxy Equals Art Cars [Internal]

The difference between the rows of late model cars at the junkyard awaiting the crusher and Grandpa's 400-thousand mile 1974 Mercury Bobcat Wagon with genuine simulated wood grain paneling is regularly scheduled maintenance. The failure of an inexpensive and easy to replace part can cause a heap of pricey damage. This is especially true of the automotive cooling system thermostat.

Overheated Driver

The thermostat lives in between the engine and the radiator and acts as a temperature controlled engine coolant valve. If this valve fails and slams shut, so does the cooling system. An overheated engine and driver are often the unfortunate end result. The good news is thermostats are inexpensive and fairly simple to replace. Symptoms of a failed thermostat are an engine that takes forever to warm up, or an engine that's running hot despite every other part of the cooling system being in good shape.

Function Sensor

The primary function of the thermostat is to allow the engine to warm up quickly by restricting coolant flow to the radiator during the first few minutes after the engine is kicked over. Getting the engine to operating temperature quickly helps it run more efficiently. Sensors peering into engine coolant tell the computer how much fuel to add and at what idle speed to run the engine on cold start. Fuel is added in greater quantities and RPM is kicked up a few to prevent cold stalling. These same sensors tell the computer to give the rich condition a rest once the engine is warm. In colder climates getting the engine warm fast also means warm drivers and passengers, as heater operates by way of toasty warm engine coolant.

Secondary Economy

The secondary function of the thermostat is regulating coolant flow to maintain steady engine operating temperature and cooling system efficiency. Each thermostat has a temperature at which it will fully open. Engines are designed to run most efficiently at a certain temperature and for this reason it's important to always replace a thermostat with another of the correct temperature rating. Installing a 160-degree thermostat into an engine designed to operate at 195 degrees can cause poor fuel economy, as the computer will meter an incorrect amount of fuel. An engine running too cool can fool the engine computer into running the engine too rich.

One of Two

When a thermostat fails outright one of two things happen. The better thing is when the thermostat gets stuck open. The worst thing is when the thermostat gets stuck closed, and corks up hot coolant in the engine. Coolant trapped inside a running engine quickly overheats. A mess of problems can arise from an overheated engine - none of them good news. Engine overheating is the number one cause of cylinder head cracking and failure. Melted and cracked aluminum engine components such as cylinder heads are much more expensive to replace than a thermostat. As draining the coolant or removing the radiator hoses are the first steps in replacing a thermostat this is a good time to check and replace the thermostat.

Next Week: Water Pump

Stuff You'll Need:

· Thermostat and Gasket
· Coolant
· Distilled Water
· Saucepan
· Catch Container
· Kitchen
· Funnel
· Ramps and/or Jack Stands
· Hand Tools
· Scraper

Thermostats almost always reside in a housing at the engine side end of the upper radiator hose. Drain coolant into a catch container. Loosen and remove radiator hose to access thermostat housing. Consult the service manual if the housing cannot be found.

Loosen the bolts that hold down the thermostat housing. Remove the housing to reveal thermostat. Note the orientation of thermostat relative to the engine. Draw a picture of this orientation in a Big Chief writing tablet, or take a picture with a digital camera. Remove thermostat. That small valve in the thermostat body allows trapped air to pass, and needs to be on one side or the other.

Testing a thermostat is easy. Put the thermostat in a saucepan full of cold water. Turn on the heat. Watch the thermostat, and at what temperature it opens. This temperature is usually on the bottom of the thermostat itself. If the thermostat does not open the problem has been found!

Use a scraper to remove old gasket material from all mounting surfaces. All of it.

Place new gasket on housing. Use a small amount of grease or adhesive to hold it in place during reassembly. In a perfect world the gasket will stay on the housing next time around.

Install new thermostat. Spring side down. Make sure new thermostat is oriented properly and reinstall the housing.

Do not over tighten the bolts on the thermostat housing. The housings are fragile and can easily crack. This housing came apart thanks to ham-fisted wrenching.

Close radiator petcock. Reconnect all hoses. Either return original coolant to the cooling system or refill the radiator a 50-50 mix of new coolant and distilled water. Minerals in tap water can contribute to cooling system corrosion buildup. Fill radiator 3/4 or so full. Start engine. Slowly top off radiator with engine running to burp any trapped air from the cooling system. Replace radiator cap. Check overflow tank level. – Mike Bumbeck

Related:
And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts: Replace a Radiator or Heater Hose; And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Cooler Heads

The burning of gasoline, diesel, or corn cakes, produces heat from the instant an engine starts. This heat must be channeled away so the engine can keep spinning instead of fusing itself together. Surrounding the cylinders in which the pistons and valves do their internal combustion act is a jacket that contains engine coolant. The coolant transfers heat from the engine and is then circulated through the cooling system by way of a water pump. Coolant travels out of the engine, and through one rubber hose into the radiator. The radiator allows heat to pass from the coolant into the surrounding air, and presto! The coolant returns back to the engine through another rubber hose cooler than when it left.

Circulating Coolant

In this way the engine keeps cool. In a brilliant stroke of engineering, the automobile heating system utilizes a smaller radiator of sorts called a heater core. Smaller rubber hoses bring hot coolant from the engine into to the heater core. This miniature radiator along with a blower fan keeps toes and kiesters toasty in winter. So it goes. Over time this cold and hot act takes its toll on engine coolant and components. Heat unleashed by the radiator and engine itself especially beats up on the rubber the radiator and heater hoses are made out of. Trouble can come if either one of the radiator hoses cracks or starts leaking. Cooling system pressure and coolant can quickly escape and cause big problems fast. Engine overheating is the number one cause of cylinder head failure. Overheating can be caused by the failure of a ten buck hose, 37 cent hose clamp, or as we'll examine next week - a seven dollar thermostat.

Hose Inspector

Inspecting the radiator and heater hoses once a year or so is not only easy, it can prevent spending that summer afternoon pic-a-nic on the side of the road waiting for a tow, instead of down by the lake with the basket. Obvious signs of impending hose failure is coolant seeping from the hose itself. In some cases hoses will present a miniature version of Vesuvius. That radiator hose that looks like a snake that swallowed a rabbit will blow shortly, usually on the way to a job interview or to pick up a pal from the airport. Less obvious signs of decay can be seen and felt by grabbing hold of a cold radiator or heater hose and giving it a good squeeze. Brittle or cracking material, a spongy feel, or a hose sticking to the inside of itself are bad signs. Replacement radiator hoses for even the most obscure of automobiles are available from your neighborhood or online auto parts store.

Up Front

Since most sane automobile engineers place the radiator up at the front of the vehicle for superior heat transfer and engine cooling, replacing the radiator hoses is usually an easy job. Heater hoses, being smaller in size and trickier in routing, can present more difficulty. The best time to inspect your heater and radiator hoses is cooler weather. Ever notice how the first warm day of the year brings masses of steaming over motorists on road shoulders? An on the edge of failing cooling system or radiator hose will be fine during winter but give up at the first sign of hot weather. Never grab onto a hot radiator hose or attempt to remove a radiator cap from a hot radiator. The resulting steam can cause serious injury. Keep an eye on hoses until next week, when we move inside the cooling system.

Next Week: Replace a Thermostat

Stuff You'll Need:

· Replacement Radiator and/or Heater Hoses
· Radiator Hose or White Lithium Grease
· Hose Clamps
· Utility Knife
· A Clean Catch Container
· Pliers or Hose Clamp Pliers and Hand Tools
· Funnel
· Ramps and/or Jack Stands
· Coolant
· Distilled Water

Disconnect the negative battery post. Allow engine to fully cool. Remove the radiator cap. Locate the radiator drain valve, usually on the bottom corner of the radiator. Turn the valve to drain the engine coolant. Close valve. Use a clean catch container. Keep one container for coolant, and the other for oil. If the coolant is still OK pour it back from where it came after hose replacement.

Loosen radiator hose clamps. Move the hose clamps towards the center of the hose. The pictured clamps are of the original equipment manufacture [OEM] variety circa 1982. Screw-type worm-drive hose clamps may also be found or used as replacements.

The quickest way to remove stuck-on or crusty old radiator hoses for replacement is utility knife surgery. Slice lengthwise and peel hose away. Don't go Gorilla Monsoon trying to remove the hose. The necks on the radiator and aluminum thermostat housings are often fragile from age.

Transfer hose clamps to new hose. Compare old and new hose. Trim if required. Take a little off rather than a lot. Better a little too long than too short! A little radiator hose or white lithium grease will help with installation. Grease also prevents corrosion and makes for less difficult removal next time around. Just put a dab where the hose meets its mounts.

Don't forget to put the hose clamps on the hose before installation. Slide hose into place. Attach or tighten hose clamps. Do not over-tighten screw-type worm-drive clamps! OEM style clamps create their own tension. Remove and install heater hoses the same way.

If the coolant looks OK return it to the cooling system. If the coolant looks like it came from the big lake they call Gitche Gumee, dispose of old coolant properly and refill the radiator a 50-50 mix of new coolant and distilled water. Minerals in tap water can contribute to cooling system corrosion buildup. Fill radiator 3/4 or so full. Start engine. Slowly top off radiator with engine running to burp any trapped air from the cooling system. Replace radiator cap. Check overflow tank level.– Mike Bumbeck

Related:
And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

A General History of the Starlet [Toyoland.com]

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Fully Cooked

Classic symptoms of a dead or dying alternator are increasingly dim headlights or sluggish electrical accessories after dark. The morning after may bring nothing but a sad click from the starter. A vehicle driven around long enough with a spent alternator will eventually exhaust the battery. The battery only has so much stored power. Everything will come to a halt. This usually occurs at night while driving with the hi-beams, heater, and MC5 at full blast. Stranded at night with a dead car is not the world's best motoring experience.

Electrical Gremlins

The paradox of alternator replacement is that automotive electrical gremlins can be tricky devils. Check each part and the charging system as a whole before replacing components such as the alternator. Removing and replacing the alternator only to find out that the voltage regulator, battery, or a loose wire is the faulty party can be an expensive lesson. Your local auto parts store may now have portable diagnostic equipment that can be wheeled out to sniff out problems with the charging system. A service manual and multimeter go far in outlining test procedures for checking the charging system and components with a multimeter. Check alternator output itself. Check Voltage delivery at the battery. Check voltage regulator output.

Remove and Replace

If the alternator has gone permanently south, replacing it is usually a relatively easy job. We say usually for a reason. Sometimes alternators can be held captive by other components at the core of what amounts to an automotive Gordian knot. If you can't see the alternator from above or below the engine then there may be trouble in replacement. This is where a service manual comes in handy for specific procedures. The following tips are general guidelines. Jacking up the car or putting it up on ramps may be required to get to the alternator.

Stuff You'll Need:

· A service manual outlining vehicle specific charging system tests and alternator replacement procedures for your 1972 Dodge Dart Swinger, or similar.
· A multimeter
· Wrenches and basic hand tools
· A replacement alternator
· A replacement belt
· Another car or pal to drive back to the auto parts store after they give you the wrong alternator.

Check the charging system and individual components before deciding the alternator is at fault for electrical gremlins. External voltage regulators may have seen a few presidents. Most modern vehicles have solid-state internal voltage regulators inside the alternator itself.

Turn off the engine. Disconnect the battery negative and positive. A wrench or a screwdriver across alternator connections and a ground can cook components like engine control computers and hi-fi sound systems. Never disconnect electrical while the engine is running.

V-belt equipped vehicles usually have two bolts holding an alternator in one place. One bolt or assembly holds belt tension. The other bolt holds the alternator to its mount. First loosen and remove the tension bolt or assembly. Next loosen the pivot bolt. Push the alternator on its pivot for belt slack.

On more modern vehicles the alternator and engine driven accessories are turned by one serpentine belt. A spring-loaded self-tensioner holds the serpentine belt tight and keeps things spinning. A wrench and pull on the self-tensioner provides belt slack, and allows removal of the alternator.

Remove electrical connections. Remove the pivot bolt. Remove the alternator. Now is a good time to check and replace worn belts.

Compare the old and new alternators to make sure everything is the same. Transfer any nuts or miscellany from the old to new. Reverse the removal procedure to install the new alternator. Go only finger tight on the bolts.

The trick with older v-belt setups is to hold the alternator against the belt and tighten the tension bolt at the same time. Tensioner assemblies may take care of this feat with a few turns of the wrench. Check belt tension. A little under an inch of deflection is ideal. Too much tension will quickly destroy alternator bearings. Better a slightly loose belt than one too tight. Fully tighten pivot bolt only after belt tension is set.

The last step is to start vehicle and check alternator output with a multimeter. Check voltage output at the battery. Run engine for about 15 minutes or so and recheck belt tension. Adjust tension if required. Check belt tension again after about 500 miles. – Mike Bumbeck

Related:
And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Along with the air comes all the dirt, grime, bugs, and associated debris floating around in it. Over time this collective crud can clog the up the air filter. Rough running, poor mileage, and lousy performance can be the unfortunate end result. The good news is replacing an air filter is a snap, and can even save a few bucks over the long haul. Knowing when to change the air filter is as easy as opening the owner's manual, or taking a look at the air filter itself.

Severe Duty

Most air filter service intervals run in the 9-12,000 mile range. If your manual is missing then inspect your air filter every time you change your oil, and replace it as needed. Keep in mind that air filters clog quicker serving severe duty. Air filter service intervals could be much shorter if the vehicle is operated where there is a great deal of dust, stop and go traffic, or other atmospheric crud.

Snorkel Box

To change the air filter open up the hood and find what looks like a box with a tube or snorkel connected to it. The air filter is inside this airbox. Carbureted vehicles have a circular canister on top of the engine that houses the air filter. If neither of these assemblies can be found then consult the owner's or service manual for air filter location and replacement procedures. Otherwise, simply replace the old air filter with the new one.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Replacement Air Filter
· Screwdriver
· Vacuum (optional)

First locate the airbox or canister that houses the air filter. Follow the tube or snorkel away from the engine until it ends at the airbox.

Release any clips or fasteners holding the airbox together. Don't lose them!

Loosening intake hose clamps can help in separating the airbox.
Take care not to damage MAF/MAP sensor or associated wiring. Separate electrical connectors for additional slack.

Separate airbox and remove the old air filter. While wrestling with the clips and tubes be careful not to tear the intake hose or damage sensors.

This air filter had served well as a bug and dirt catcher.

A shop vacuum works well to remove any remaining debris from the airbox.

Install the new filter, making sure it seats in the airbox housing. Reinstall any clips or fasteners. Reconnect and retighten anything loosened during disassembly. Check to see if airbox parts form a tight seal before starting engine. – Mike Bumbeck

Related:
And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Check early and often is a phrase we toss about frequently here at Jalopnik, and is certainly one that applies to checking tire pressure. Tires can lose a few pounds of pressure a month just sitting. Hitting chuckholes or traveling on rough roads can accelerate pressure loss. Deep freeze weather can also cause tires to lose a few pounds. Unless your name is Bibendum, you can't determine tire pressure just by looking. Checking tire pressure requires a gauge.

Low and Hot

Incorrect tire pressure is the number one cause of tire failure. Low pressure brings too much of the tire surface in contact with the road. This contact with the tarmac builds excessive heat. The heat buildup can cause a tire to come apart. Adding a load to the vehicle and going on a long trip at high speeds intensifies this effect. Too much pressure can cause quick tire wear as too little of the tire is making contact. Tires inflated to teakwood pressure can also produce a harsh ride.

Check Cold

Since the recommended tire pressures are measured cold by the vehicle manufacturer, this is also when operating tire pressure must be checked. As the tires get warm from driving around, so does the air inside. In the morning before the vehicle goes anywhere is a good time to check pressure and add a few pounds. Failing that check tire pressure within a mile of home, or wait until the tires have cooled. Have lunch. Check later.

Heavy Load

Run tires with the pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. These numbers may vary front to rear, or according to vehicle load. The pressure number on the side of the tire is maximum tire pressure, not the operating pressure! Cities on the moon and kittens aside, checking the tire pressure at least once a month can be of vastly greater benefit than harm, and is something that's wicked easy to do.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Tire Pressure Gauge
· Pressurized Air or Air Pump

Check pressure when the tires are cold. If you have to drive to a gas station for air, choose one within a mile from the driveway or parking spot. Start by removing the cap on the tire valve.

Tire gauges come in all manner of types and sizes. The key is to use the same gauge all the time for consistency. The gauge at the gas station will always be broken. Push the tire pressure gauge down onto the valve and hold until it gives a pressure reading.

Add air if pressure is below vehicle manufacturers recommendations, and depending on load. These recommended pressures can be found on the driver side door, or on a sticker inside the glove box.

Too much pressure! The nub on the backside of the tire pressure gauge is designed to push in the valve and let air out of the tire for pressure adjustment. Recheck pressure with gauge. Add air. Let some out. Recheck pressure. And so on.

Replace the cap and check the other three tires. Checking the spare tire pressure is also a good idea. A flat spare tire can cause excessive roadside swearing. Spares usually have their own recommended pressure on the tire itself. – Mike Bumbeck

Tire Pressure and Loading [Safercar.gov]; Mario Andretti Explains Tire Pressure [Tiresafety.com]

Related:
And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Return to "How To Winterize Your Car In Ten Easy Steps."

At least one, and perhaps more of us here at the the Jalop not only fantasize about cars on a minute-by-minute basis, but also find time to squeeze in wet dreams about transportation of the two-wheeled variety. While the world of motorcycles can seem foreign and dangerous to the cage driver (that's what we call you douchebags when we're on the bike), it's actually safer than you'd think. The vast majority of motorcycle-related injuries are caused by operator stupidity. Another huge chunk of those injuries are due to some cager not seeing you in the worst possible moment. With that in mind, updating the signaling and lighting system on your motorcycle isn't the worst way to spend a few bucks, improve the bike's looks, and maybe keep your sorry ass off the pavement.

I must mention that this presentation won't be 100% representative of a stock upgrade, since the bike in question has been upgraded previously. While it doesn't have the grody three-inch taillights from the 70's, it still has the original incandescent electronics. (Cagers take note: There's no reason this won't work the same way on your "car.")

Opening up the bike, you can see that the previous upgrade attempt wasn't exactly performed by an organized electrician. Wires everywhere, poorly grounded, weak connections (gah! wingnuts!?) — not a pretty picture. The first step in every wiring project is to know where you are, then you can ascertain where you're going. For this, a shop manual for your bike is crucial. ("This is your manual. There are many like it, but this one is yours, Your manual is your best friend. It is your life. You must master it as you must master the feeler gauge...") Get a handle on the wiring diagram and trace out the relevant circuits as identified by wire color code. On old steeds, the turn signal system is driven by a tiny hamster thermal flasher.

These thermal flashers work by passing electricity from the battery, through a switch and into a thermal winding, which will expand and reach a contact. The Juice then passes through the incandescent element, where the charge is used then grounded, and the process restarts, since the wire cools at this point. Unfortunately, this process doesn't work so hot (hah, pun) with LEDs. The light emitting diode doesn't draw enough current to restart the process, so it will light one time, then stay on. What's the solution? Electronic flasher switch!

Electronic flasher switches have relays and stuff, so you most likely need to have a signal source (the switch circuit) and a power source (battery). I got the snazzy one with a micro so I could re-utilize most of the original circuitry. For this case, I was able to run the turn signals, flashers, brake lights and running lights together because the voltage of each is distinct, and will light the LEDs at different intensities.

When installing wiring, make sure that all splices are at least well crimped at the connectors, if not soldered together. To be neat, only run as much wire as you need. I like to use heat shrink tube to keep everything together and wrap the spilts and joints in electrical tape. You can pick all of this stuff up in any big box store's electrical aisle. Just make sure you slide the tube over the wire bundle before you make your permanent connection or you'll be cursing your deity over the sorrows of rework. After buttoning everything up and testing the result, put everything back together and enjoy your handiwork. Now watch out for those cagers. – Ben Wojdyla

Related:
And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts: Check the Oil [internal]

Choose Wisely

Determining the hot setup depends largely on the weight of your vehicle. There's no need to get a 12-ton "Grave Digger" Monster Truck jack and jack stands set if you drive a 1972 Honda AN600 Coupe, while a bargain stamped steel 1-ton set won't cut it for holding up that gold-plated Escalade. Another consideration is vehicle ground clearance. Low-profile floor jacks are effective in squeezing under sportier rides equipped with ground hugging front, rear, and side mounted aerodynamic body panels.

Important Points

Jacking and jack stand support points are also crucial. A jack or jack stand in the wrong location can cause vehicular or bodily damage! Your owner's manual is a good place to locate safe jacking locations for your vehicle. Never jack up a vehicle from a point not designed to handle the load. If unsure about where to place a jack or jack stand the best strategy is to stop. Do not attempt to guess at a good location. Putting holes in the floorboards is not the desired result.

Take It Easy

When lowering the vehicle onto the stands or back onto the ground it is important to s-l-o-w-l-y release the hydraulic pressure inside the jack. Before lowering the vehicle always double check jack stand locations, and make sure the area is clear by looking. If working with others yell "clear" or "potrzebie" before releasing jack pressure. Slow lowering of the vehicle not only helps prevent damage but supplies time to see any potential hazards before they occur. Practice raising and lowering the jack to get a good feel for how it operates before attempting the real deal.

Stuff You'll Need:

· A Jack and Jack Stands
· A Wheel Chock

The tools for the job - a sturdy floor jack and jack stands. Choose wisely and according to vehicle mass. The plan is to raise the vehicle high enough to get the jack stands underneath and properly placed, then slowly lower the vehicle slowly onto the stands.

The first step is to park the vehicle on solid, level ground such as a concrete or paved surface. Put the transmission in park, set the parking brake, or use a wheel chock to prevent unwanted rolling.

Place a floor jack under a safe jacking point. Look in the owner's manual for jacking points. Guessing can bend things, so don't do it. Pump the handle on the floor jack until the raising arm makes contact with the jacking point, then keep pumping until the jack is at the end of its travel.

The jack stand goes underneath a jack point. One can either jack up and lower one side of the vehicle at a time, or raise one end of the vehicle and lower it onto two correctly placed jack stands.

Slowly release jack pressure to lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. Releasing the hydraulic pressure is a good thing to practice some time before there's a 3000 or more pound vehicle teetering on the jack.

Remove the jack. Check for solid support before attempting under vehicle activities. A good way to do this is to grab onto the bumper and give the vehicle a gentle yet determined push back and forth. A better idea to determine the vehicle is solidly supported while above it then underneath. – Mike Bumbeck

Related:
And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Related:
And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Checking the oil level is as simple as popping the hood and reading the dipstick. Since the dipstick only reads how much oil is in the pan itself there are a few rules to follow. The first and foremost rule is to check oil only when the vehicle is on level ground. Since the dipstick extends into the bottom of the oil pan it will give an inaccurate reading if the oil is gathered up at the back, front, or sides of the pan. The second rule is to wait long enough for oil to drain back down from the engine into the oil pan before checking the oil. This can be as short as a few minutes, such as when tanking up at a gas station.

Hot or cold is where the argument starts. The check-when-cold crew maintains since all the oil is in the pan when the engine is cold, the dipstick will give the most accurate reading. The check-when-hot crowd counters that since oil expands when hot, the best time to check the oil is when the engine is warm. As people truly seem to love arguing about oil the argument will certainly not stop here. Both arguments are valid as long as the first two rules are followed. If your driveway is flat then check your oil in the cold morning air. If you have to chock your wheels against the curb of a steep slope when parking at night, then check your oil at the gas station when the engine is warm and on a flat surface. Checking the oil level every other fill-up is a good schedule to follow.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Rags
· Recommended Viscosity and Type of Oil
· Funnel
· Owner's Manual

Begin checking the oil by finding the dipstick. Park the automobile on level ground, and set the emergency brake. Open and prop up the hood, then look for this.

Pinch a rag or around the dipstick to remove oil as it is drawn out of the engine. Remove the dipstick.

Reinsert the clean dipstick into the engine until the handle bottoms out in the dipstick tube.

Draw the dipstick back out and take a reading. On the bottom of this dipstick are two marks. The upper mark indicates full. The lower mark indicates add. Time to add one quart!

To add oil first locate and remove the oil filler cap. While this may seem obvious, pour engine oil only into the engine itself. Engine oil filler caps are usually clearly labeled with the word OIL or a pictogram of what looks magically like Aladdin's oil lamp.

Add one quart of oil only if the oil on the dipstick is below the add mark. Too much oil can be detrimental to the gaskets and seals designed to keep oil inside the engine. Use a funnel unless you have super pouring abilities. Consult the owner's manual for exact quantity and type of oil.

Check the oil level one more time.

Replace and tighten oil filler cap. Double-check dipstick for proper seating. Be certain that all funnels, rags, and portable electronic devices are removed from the engine compartment before closing the hood. – Mike Bumbeck

Related:
And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Return to "How To Winterize Your Car In Ten Easy Steps."

Venus Flytrap

Lift support replacement is a relatively simple task but can also be potentially dangerous. The utmost caution should be taken anytime a gaping maw of steel and glass lay in wait to take a bite out of you like an automotive Venus Flytrap. This is one case where two heads really are better than one, and four hands will prevent any unwelcome concussions. Do not use any makeshift device to hold up hood or hatchback while replacing lift supports. It will inevitably fail and result in pinched fingers or head clobbering.

No Expenses Paid

Getting down to the two 10mm bolts that hold the lift support to the vehicle body may require special tools and considerable swearing. If luck is on your side there will be one bolt on the bottom of the lift support, and one on the top. Those less lucky will get a no expenses paid world fastener tour, which may include such highlights as Canadian square head screws and plastic compression plugs from Luxembourg. Lift supports can be found under trunk, hatchback, and hood, so there are more than a few possible configurations out there. As in any two-sided replacement procedure always work with one side at a time. Leaving one side assembled as a reference point can save headache.

Stuff You'll Need

· A willing and attentive helper
· Basic hand tools
· Possible oddball interior panel removal tools
· Replacement lift support or supports

Peer carefully at each end of the lift support before ordering up replacements. All ball-ends, fasteners, and swaged in swivels should be the same on the set of replacement support. Also make note of any electrical connections for rear-mounted wipers or other gizmos. Take care in removing plastic covers. Careful means if it feels like it's going to break, it will. Search for hidden fasteners before cracking panels.

Note position of all fasteners and lift support hardware before beginning. With attentive helper holding up the hatchback, hood, or truck first remove one end of the lift support. Retain any clips, ball ends, fasteners, or other gizmos.

Remind allegedly attentive helper to continue holding things up. Remove fasteners on other end of the lift support, and remove the old lift support from the body. Never attempt to cut apart gas-charged lift supports. Another gas-charged tip is to leave the plastic retaining strap on the new lift support until ready to install.

Mount in any new supplied ball ends or swivels before cutting the strap on the new lift support.

In this case the replacement lift supports came with a spring steel c-clip cup end in place of the original swaged in unit. Use a screwdriver to open up c-clip mount.

Push the cup end of the lift support onto the ball end mount. Push on steel c-clip to secure cup on ball end. Droopy lids and trunks will soon be thing of the past.

Repeat removal and replacement procedure on the other side. Tell helper to take a break. Clean any greasy fingerprints and residue off lift support rod before closing hatchback or hood, as debris can cause damage to the seals inside the lift support. – Mike Bumbeck

Related:
And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Suspended inside the plastic shell of the battery are lead plates coated with particular metals. These plates react with the battery acid, or electrolyte solution, to produce and store electricity. As the battery charges during driving some electrolyte vapor vents out of the plastic shell along with a bit of hydrogen. This vapor can cause corrosion to form around the battery terminals and posts along with causing nasty things to happen under the battery tray. Snowy corrosion on the posts and terminals can interrupt the flow of electricity into and out of the battery. Electrolyte levels drop as the solution evaporates and leave the battery unable to hold or take a charge. Battery cleaning and maintenance will help keep a lid on these problems.

Stuff You'll Need:

· Safety Glasses, Gloves and Disposable Clothing
· Wrenches and Basic Hand Tools.
· Battery Post and Terminal Cleaning Tool
· Dielectric Grease or Petroleum Jelly
· Baking Soda and Water Bucket
· Scrub Brush

Install safety glasses, gloves, and disposable clothing on yourself before doing any battery work. In case you were asleep in Chemistry class, or forgot about the cover of Led Zeppelin 1, hydrogen explodes handily in the presence of spark. The combination of potential explosion and corrosive acid is why keeping tools off the top of the battery and out of your hands when you're not using them is a good plan. Metal tools making contact across battery posts will produce a shower of sparks.

There are a few different configurations of the terminal-and-post arrangement. They all work to the same end. Loosen terminal bolts and remove negative battery terminal first. The negative is marked with the (-) symbol, by the color black, or green. Give terminal a good twist to break any corrosive hold on the post. Spread apart old-style terminals with flat blade screwdriver if stubborn. Remove positive terminal in the same way. The (+) symbol or the color red distinguishes the positive terminal.

Clean up the battery posts and terminals. All manner of tools designed specifically for this task are available in at your local auto parts store. Use the tool until the metal of the posts and terminals are shiny and free of corrosion. Shown here is the post end of things. Use the other end for cleaning the inside of the terminals.

Remove battery caps. Add only distilled water to slightly below fill hole. Never overfill a battery, or use tap, spring, or vitamin water. Hydrogen gas needs room to vent. Minerals in tap water can react adversely with the battery acid and lead plates and cause the battery to become uncooperative. Battery fillers are inexpensive and well suited to the task. Turkey basters or similar, will also work. Just don't use it for basting anymore after contact with battery acid.

Loosen and remove the battery hold downs. The hold-downs keep the battery from knocking about under the hood. Look for a strap-type bar with a few bolts or wingnuts. Remove the battery. Clean the battery and battery tray area with solution of one-pound baking soda to one gallon of water to help neutralize acid and prevent corrosion. Dry or allow to dry before reassembling.

Re-install the battery coat posts and terminals with a dielectric grease to help prevent corrosion and aid in conductivity. Petroleum jelly will also work. Spread the grease in a thin coat over both posts and terminals. Now is also a good time to employ a battery charger if required.

Always replace any broken or crumbling terminals. Felt pads under the terminals fight corrosion and keep positive-negative post-terminal confusion to a minimum. Install terminals on posts using downward force and a twist for good contact. Tighten up the bolts. Snug is good. Don't overtighten the bolts. – Mike Bumbeck

Related:
And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts [Internal]

Return to "How To Winterize Your Car In Ten Easy Steps."

When performing a restoration, a rotisserie is often helpful, allowing one a comfortable working position while providing access to places that would otherwise be nigh-on impossible to get to without an expensive lift. We came across this ingenious solution while up at Trevor's a couple of months back — Trev's restoring a Mini that used to be a crisps delivery van in Dublin. It's in relatively good shape for a 40-year old car that was never seen as more than an appliance, but the suspension needed to be rebuilt and there was a healthy amount of floorpan corrosion.

For a light, unibody car like a Mini, Trev's rough-but-elegant solution is perfect. After gutting the interior and yanking the front and rear subframes, he bolted up these simple rockers made of tubing and angle iron to the body, which affords him 0, 45 and 90-degree working positions. It's really stable, and it can easily and safely be moved from position to position by one man. Note, while this same technique could be applied to other, larger vehicles, such as Camaros or Mopar B-Bodies, we'd recommend heavier construction, and at least a couple of guys to rotate the car. Something as light as a stripped-out Mini body doesn't have a whole lot in the way of inertia, making it highly unlikely to over-rotate when flipping the vehicle. But for a shadetree resto project like Trev's, we can't think of a more KISS-simple solution. – Davey G. Johnson

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And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts: Using Car Ramps [Internal]

While run-flat tire technology, roadside assistance programs and tire-changing helper robots have certainly come a long way, a flat tire is an inevitable part of the driving experience. Despite great measures taken to make tires tough enough to withstand the rigors of modern motoring, nefarious forces are perpetually plotting to relieve them of their air. Errant mattresses, tumbling pallets, mangled step ladders, and other, more insidious road hazards, such as boxes full of roofing nails dropped from a truck, all conspire to flatten the pneumatic miracle that is the modern automobile tire.

Be Prepared

Until the day we drive atomic-powered cars that float on a cushion of powerful yet harmless radioactivity, we're stuck with tires. A good flat tire is the one you discover as you stroll, keys in hand, to your stationary vehicle. The bad flat tire is that sudden blowout in mid cruise. Either way, the task at hand is clear; get the wheel with the flat tire off the vehicle and put the spare wheel and air-filled tire where that one used to be.

Advisory bulletin number one: Be prepared. The worst time to learn how to change a tire is in the summer heat, while several kinds of biting insects feast at the stranded-motorist buffet. The best time to prepare for the inevitable Changing of the Tire is long before it happens. A lazy afternoon in the driveway is a good time to learn how to use the emergency jack and prepare for your flat-tire future. This small investment in time will pay off when roadside assistance cannot be reached due to a recalcitrant cell phone, or when the helper robot is down for repairs.

Regular inspection of spare tire pressure is a capital idea. Lowering the vehicle onto the spare is the wrong time to find out there's not any air in that tire, either. Check the spare tire air pressure at the same frequency as the rest of the tires. This spare requires 60psi!

Ugh, It Happened

Never attempt to change a tire on the side of a shoulderless highway, steep incline, blind corner, edge of a scenic roadside chasm, or other potentially dangerous situation. Always pull the vehicle slowly away from impending doom and into a safe area first.

Locate and remove the spare tire. Temporary spares are designed to be just that, and are to be used only for short distances at slow speeds (usually under 50 mph).

Find and remove the emergency jack. If luck is good, the lug wrench or tool kit may also reside in the same location.

Informative and entertaining instructions are usually not far from the spare itself. These instructions are also in the owner's manual. Heed all warnings — especially concerning the emergency jack points.

Turn engine off. Apply parking brake. Before raising vehicle first use the lug wrench to break loose, but not remove the lug nuts. Unless you happen to drive an old Plymouth with bizarre reverse-thread wheel studs, removing and installing nuts is always the same. Righty tighty. Lefty loosey. Putting your foot down also helps here.

Place the emergency jack under the jack point and raise the vehicle just enough to remove wheel and tire. The moniker of the jack is well chosen. Emergencies only! Stay out from under the vehicle while using often spindly emergency jacks.

Remove the lug nuts, and set them aside together in a safe place. Hubcaps or hats work well to prevent misplaced nuts.

Lift the temporary spare onto the wheel studs. Thread the lug nuts onto the studs by hand first.

Snug up and seat the lug nuts against the wheel with the lug wrench before lowering vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern. Tighten one nut, then the one furthest from the first one.

Slowly lower the vehicle. Remove the emergency jack. Finish tightening the nuts in criss-cross pattern. Drive at reasonable speeds to the nearest tire service center. Happy motoring.

Related:
And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts: Oil and Filter Change [internal]